Hangar 9 ASW-20

[BobR]

Stephane,

LOL I have done much work and analysis over Motors, ESC, and Prop combinations for the ASW 20 to include offset. I have nearly come to the conclusion that Eflight and Hanger 9 engineers really know what they are doing. The eclac software has been priceless to test bench (software) 100's of combinations. The results of which can be narrowed down to a few simple conclusions. 1. Nothing is free. 2. There is a cost financial and engineering for performance. What Hanger 9 has done with the standard set up appear to me to be a combination of performance, price, and solid configuration. HAVING SAID ALL THAT, I think there is a justifiable case for upgrading the prop to a 17x10 which produces .94 to 1 thrust to weight ratio when the proposed 16x10 produces .85 1 thrust to weight ratio. Perhaps not a big deal but a cheap hop up with no other degradation that I can see. I think it best to harden ESC however to 120A.

The work continues......

​Bob

[French1]

Bob,

here is how it look when done,

enjoy Cumberland 2015

[BobR]

Wow that is so COOOOOL, I noticed you did not use flaps for landing. Do you have any videos with them in use? I ask as my home field I may not be able to land it. I know for sure I will not maiden it there. I want to order her so bad. Must wait another 2 weeks (house to close in Atlanta Then Game On!

[ARUP]

Stephane, do you have source and part numbers for the wing servo lead socket and plug?

[French1]

look up DB9 connector on ebay

[AGriffith]

I get ready made harnesses from TailDraggerRC.com I don't have the patience to solder DB9's

[ARUP]

Thanks for replies, guys! Currently, the rudder hinging on mine is getting re-done. I put the plastic hinge points in too deep so didn't have enough throw. They are awfully 'wobbly' so that is another excuse I'm using to re-do my poor workmanship. After removing rudder and getting the plastic hinge points removed I cut the LE off rudder and let plastic tube segments down the centerline and re-glued the LE in place. I made some Micarta hinges that will get glued into rudder and they will get glued, along with support blocks, onto fin post. It is all very stiff laterally and vertically, unlike those plastic hinges in the kit. A hinge pin in the form of a piece of music wire will connect the rudder to fin. Plus, fin is now easily removable... for when stab taken off it is an easy matter to pull the rudder hinge pin if needed!

[BobR]

I just purchased the male and female of these: I think it will allow me to affix both fuselage and wing solidly so they will be plug and play. I am hopeful. 2 males 2 female $10.00)))

DB9-G1 DB9 Nut Type Connector 9Pin Male Adapter Trustworthy RS232 to Terminal

[BobR]

[BobR]

By the way I have found that for aileron flaps and spoilers you will connect all 3 positive wires together on one plug. All three Negative wires on one plug and each signal on there own. therefore you would only use 5 of the 9 pins. Nice!

[Steve P]

But if you have 9 pins why not use all of them and decrease potential power failure odds? One broken pin now brings down three functions. Combining leads is more typically done to use a smaller/fewer pin connector in size and weight sensitive applications?

[BobR]

Yes I understand that thought process. Makes sense and the connectors I purchased are easily enough used. I will follow your sugestion on this.

[gunny11]

This ship is good and no major modifications needed. However I did find a nice instrument panel from IflyTailies. I bought the kit for $30 and finished in two hours. You could also buy the finished version too.

[BobR]

I see that you can order individual instruments. Can you provide the link for the finished version which you speak of?

[BobR]

Found it - http://www.iflytailies.com/store/ins...le-sailplanes/

[gunny11]

The pull pull cables for the rudder to crimp them internally in the fuselage would be very difficult. I found an easier way and that is to push them out through the servo wire opening in the root of the rib and crimp them externally. Plus the output arm on the rudder servo is facing instead of towards the rear I switched it and have it towards the front , easier to put the screw on the output arm.

[BobR]

I love the tips and tricks. I plan on using them all. About 2 more weeks before I order the bird. I can't wait. will take some time to put together I want her to be pretty

[GliderGuyz]

Gunny,
Thanks, this technique saved me! I was able to make a much stronger set up after all.

[French1]

I tried the dolly yesterday, and it work very well. Go straight and you can even slightly steer with the rudder.

Our field is not the best, that is not a golf course and the size of the wheels is perfect for that typology of ground.

Enjoy the video



Stéphane

[BobR]

Stephane,

Are you controlling Spoilers with (throttle stick) spoiler stick? I suppose you are using the trainer button as your throttle with a 1 second delay in spool up?

Bob

[Fpv1]

My first post on this forum so, hi guys 👋
I would like to thank everyone for their advice and recommendations, we have 2 ASW 20's to put together so we will be following this thread with continued interest.
Special thanks to Stephane & regards to all,
Kev

[Fpv1]

We're going down the powered route, with dolly launchers (also may be powered 😜)
Spectrum set up (Dx9 & Spektrum AR9110 dual battery) with telemetry, vario etc.
Hoping to do the multi camera setup and maybe some FPV too.

[gunny11]

I never use rubber bands for anything because they just don't last. Instead I use very lightweight Springs with BVM door anchors. This is for the retractable landing gear doors.