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Would you have any way to post the article? Would enjoy seeing the process.
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Sure, It's an article he did for an RC magazine. That's if I can work out how to upload a PDF file. Can anybody assist in how I'm able to because it'll not upload.Comment
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In the 'Dialogue' box to post a reply/statement, look to the top right. You'll see three squares with different symbols on them, one with a smiley face to add emoji's, one with a capitol letter A for changing your font, and one with what looks like a sheet of paper with a paper clip on it. Click on that one. An additional box will open below the dialogue box with two new tabs - Upload Attachments and Upload from URL. If the PDF is saved on your confuser (computer), click on the 'Upload Attachments' tab and a new window will open for you to search your files for the PDF. When you find it double click on it and it will upload to be posted. If you need to find it on another website, click the Upload from URL.
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Hopefully Len or one of the moderators can jump in. There must be a way.Comment
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Tango, I've tried that several times and it continues to say that it's invalid data file, it's PDF file that I'm wanting to upload?
Does it need to be in some other format?
I'm happy to email to it to somebody if their able to share it on the forum because there is some very handy tips in the article even if not going EDF.Last edited by jamesn1960; 08-19-2017, 11:57 AM.Comment
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Here it is. I had to convert it to word doc, translate it and resave as PDF. There are some parts still in German because the wording is imbedded in images.Comment
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Tom, I'm not sure if anybody responded to your comment 12-05-2015, forum page 10, #143.
Uwe in Germany now uses a CFK-Prop 12.5x10, he originally started out with shortened 13x10. He also uses a A50-10L Turnado brushless motor which has a higher RPM then the E-flite 60 Outrunner recommend for the ASW20. Hacker claim that the motor is able to be used in a 11kg glider with a 12.5x10 prop. It weighs a little more and it doesn't require the motor shaft to be reversed like you need to do with E-flite 60 Outrunner. Uwe's glider weighs in at 8.8 kg and launches in nil wind with ease, he claims that it's a much better option then the Horizon recommended motor/prop configeration.
He had to modify the retract after the drive motor failed as did Gerd's re the EDF glider. Sounds like it's common fault after speaking to both gentlemen. Attached is what he did to the retract, he changed the direction of the ground plate and made longer arms to move the wheel closer to the nose of the glider to assist with ground launches.
Here's a link to one of many video of he's ground launches: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7e5tilLtgU
I'm not a fan of clumsy dolly launch systems, I've seen guys kill themselves in hangliders launching from dolly's. Plus you require an extra person to run out onto the flying field to retrieve it after launching.Attached FilesLast edited by jamesn1960; 08-20-2017, 02:07 AM.Comment
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Hi James- yes, agree 100% regarding disliking dolly launches. I started out using my Top Model dolly and all was simple and this ASW20 was off in 15 or so feet. But one day i twice hit bumps in the grass causing premature launches, ground bumps and the resulting cf prop brakes. That was an expensive day. Anyone want to buy a dolly... cheap?
Since then i stick to the simple and effective 1-man bungee launches. The glider is launched about 10' high and then the fes motor completes the tow.
I'm very happy with the eflite motor. The prop and spinner are painted to match the red nose trim. It's econimally attractive too... vs other options. Also have the aero-tow release installed for those aerotow days.
i copied some of Uwe's main wheel modifications to gain some additional ground clearance. Since the bungee launches are working for me- I didn't go further with smaller props, Hacker higher rev motor, and moving wheel mount forward(i did position the wheel lower using the lowest precut circle - as thats very easy).
Most guys i know added a servo for the retract. Make sure you buy the solid foam main wheel mentioned in this thread. I finally got around to it after buying two oem replacements.
i think you'll enjoy the ASW20. It thermals better than anything else i have and most often i land... tired but happy!Last edited by TomTerrific?; 08-20-2017, 02:49 AM.Comment
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Hi James- thanks for the picture of the retract modifications. Hadn't seen that before when i was building. Looks good.
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Hi James- it's the Sullivan Sky-Lite with aluminum hub. You'll just need to do a little minor sanding of it's sides for it to fit.
here's a link for it @ Tower:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=002251278&Q=1Comment
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I've been working on my second ASW20. So far the elevator servo to horn linkage has been modified with a ball joint on the elevator horn and the linkage was bent a few degrees for better alignment. It's a nice design in that once the stab is screwed in place on top of the fin the clevis cannot come out if it was offered to the servo arm from above. It's a bad design because the servo arm travel and elevator horn travel are off 90 degrees. That's why the ball joint was put on one end. I'll live with the servo arm not having a ball joint. One long servo cable was made to reach the elevator servo instead of 'daisy-chaining' a bunch of proprietary servo leads per the kit instructions. The retract doors have hinges modified in that the hinge pins were replaced with one continuous torsion spring that serves as the hinge pin for each door. No more rubber bands to break or hang up! The rudder was replaced with a built up item. This saved 30 grams which corresponds to about 90 grams savings in the nose. It may have been a futile exercise! The Robart hinges weren't used. A different hinge system was fabricated using phenolic. Pulling hinge pin from above allows the rudder to be removed. The pull-pull cables were routed to the floor where a bell crank receives the cables. A servo drives the bell crank via a separate linkage so that removing the servo doesn't upset the rudder cable adjustments. Aileron servo bays/covers modified a bit to fit Hitec HS-7245MG servos and the aileron horn locations moved for alignment. The kit hardware was replaced in some instances. I used DuBro 4-40 clevises since the kit items had buggered threads and couldn't be tapped without self destructing. I'm going to build a later version with winglets so this will add 5" to the span each side. Swiss1 went to a full scale sailplane event today and sent some nice pics of the forward hinged canopy. I might do that on this model in future. I have a Sullivan wheel on hand for the time if/when the kit item needs replacing. The flap set up is next. Then some dark film will be put on the underside. The seat pan will get installed after the model if flight ready. Test flights to be at Huntsville, AL in Oct. Cheers!Comment
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After driving home from the Winamac event last month, I persuaded Jelly to build his ASW20 in time for the Huntsville event, with the promise to text me daily updates with pictures and he has followed through on that
Another small package of parts is on it's way to you today to complete the project. This should be a slightly lighter version than most other ASW20's and I'm looking forward to it's maiden
Jeremy and Ben
SCC
AAA TT TN
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Anyone know if the ASW-20 is still available? I have a customer looking for a self launch scale ship and the 20 is the most budget conscious model out there.Comment
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No,
they sold the last one today.
I saw they were in stock last night and gone today. Thats the last of them I understand.Len Buffinton
Team Horizon HobbyComment
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Dennis, I got the last 2, as FedEx destroyed 2 fuselage boxes on there way to me, and both were spoken for I'm afraid!
Jeremy and Ben
SCCAAA TT TN
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One more ASW-20 in the world... All ready for maiden! Only major mod was using one of Alex's releases in the nose instead of the stock setup, really like how it looks. Just need it to warm up now!
Kevin K
Kremer Aerotowing TeamComment
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