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I agree Kevin, Looks great!! Cool scheme and red always looks sharp. Keep the nose down in the pattern.... Cumby in March? Hope the weather cooperates. The Blanik is probably thankful that there is another glider in the stable to lessen the spar bending passes! Fly safe.
I use two DuBro hinges for each door. Remove the hinge pins then fashion a segment of music wire to span both and then some. Bend a 'leg' on each end so that you can epoxy one end of the wire to the door and the other inside the fuselage. If you bend the legs 'properly' relative to each other the new hinge pin becomes a torsion spring. It works great!
Yep, I'm still a rubber band man although I did notice recently that over time things have worn or distorted enough to allow the wheel to rub against the rubber band on one door when the doors are open. I fixed that by bonding a semicircular piece of 1 mm thick Celastic on the inside of the door right where the large outer flange of the retract wheel carrier could contact it as the wheel dropped out of the fuselage. The extra thickness there allows the door to open a bit wider, clearing the rubber band.
I found the springs as my preference. A nice sized spring can be ordered through McMaster-Car: Part number is 9664K41.
Catalog page link is below:
I used the wood pieces that the rubber bands would attach to on the doors, but moved them to the aft end of the door and then brought the springs straight up and attached them to the horizontal bulkhead/plate that is in the fuse.
I know I'm late to the party with this model but wanted to show the wheel "fender" I vac formed. It's usually pretty wet down here in Houston most of the time so I thought it'd be prudent to minimized wheel trash in the fuselage when operating off grass runways. I wanted to make something that would actually fit through the limited spaces in the bulkheads.
The first one I pulled was almost perfect but in my excitement I broke it pulling it off the mold. I didn't want to waste anymore time with this modification so I settled for the second one since it'll still do the job and won't be seen. Only had clear PETG for canopies on hand but wanted to get'er done.
+1 with Len on the fender wheel well. If you 'pull' one of those for me I'll make a polyester fiberglass seat pan for you! I still have to make a seat pan for DanR and another for myself because I gave my last one to John and Dave of Clover Creek for their ASW20.
Originally posted by [URL="http://forum.scalesoaring.com/member/71-arup"
ARUP[/URL]
+1 with Len on the fender wheel well. If you 'pull' one of those for me I'll make a polyester fiberglass seat pan for you! I still have to make a seat pan for DanR and another for myself because I gave my last one to John and Dave of Clover Creek for their ASW20.
You got a deal. I could use one of your fiberglass cockpit tubs. I'm going to order some large sheets of ABS and Hi-Impact Styrene so I don't have to use up my canopy PETG unless you just really want a clear one. When it's made I'll give you a shout.
If you want I can also send you a mold cppy if you want to refine it and make one more extra custom fiberglass part for the ASW20 along with your cockpit tubs? I Although I would guess this part vac formed is probably cheaper.
Pull one from styrene and leave the flashing on it. I'll use that to make fiberglass wheel wells! If you still have an uncut cockpit tub from your ASW20 I could sure use it. Mine is getting 'frazzled' from the multiple fiberglass 'pulls' it has had.
Just ordered one! Been kicking myself for not getting a spare when the model was in production and they were available.
Which reminds me, the list of replacement parts in the manual for the new ASH-31 doesn't list the canopy as a a separate item. Sure would be nice if Horizon could add canopies to that list.
Hey
Just got a secondhand Asw20 FES
Maiden went well, but it highspeed stalled on me. No danger, but just a bit scarry...
How much elevator movement do you use? I think that should be why it stalled...
Hoping for some help...just picked up a 5M ASW-20 built on the old (early 90's?) Mark Smith/Dreamcatcher fuse that needs a cockpit and was thinking of adapting the HH ASW-20 seat pan kit to fit. Can someone measure the size (length/width) of the one included in the 4.7m HH kit for me? Am hoping it will not be too small to use with some tweaking.
Also looking for a nose mounted releasable towhook, can anyone recommend one that is readily available? I've been eyeing the ones on the Icare website (see at http://www.icare-icarus.com/Remote-n...ge_p_1226.html), are there other recommended sources?
It is 100mm deep 90mm from rear edge. 140mm wide at front edge. About 65mm deep at front. 180mm wide at the rear about 70mm from the end which is the widest part of tub.
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