Czmelak building

[kjkavaney]

Finally getting going on Peter Goldsmith's Czmelak kit. Since I am highly allergic to CA am using Aliphatic glues hence all the weight to keep things together while the water based glue sets up.
Hoping anyone else building one can chime in with any advice they might have. Fun to build something that has been thought out. Previous build was my Pegasus which drove me nutz with unforeseen issues.

[LRFitch]

Kevin, Looking Good! Good luck with the build!

Larry

[Tango Juliet]

I'm looking forward to your progress. Have you looked at or considered Super'Phatic? It sets a lot faster than normal Aliphatic glues. Off hand I don't know if its ingredients would cause you any issues, but I know it does not give off the vapor/fumes that CA does.

I buy it locally from my Hobbytown USA, but I think you can order it from Horizon. I also remove and rinse the hypodermic tip in warm water after every session and re-use it (I actually ordered extras on Amazon).

[kjkavaney]

Thanks so much, Actually I have been using that Super Phatic as pictured for years since I developed my severe allergy to CA. I often use a small paint brush to brush on the glue and smooth it out, keeping things flowing with frequent water changes as well...There are times with bigger surfaces where TItebond is my other choice. Neither bother me at all. My local hobby shop carries the Super Phatic and I try my best to buy local to keep them going. My reaction to CA is not the eyes, but rather my whole Body reacts as if I have instant severe flu and I am sick for up to two days after as little as a whiff of the stuff. Like many allergies, It keeps getting worse over time.

[Tango Juliet]

Wow! That is severe! I also use TiteBond II, but my go-to is the Super'Phatic. I use CA rather sparingly. Not due to any allergy, rather to slow me down and mitigate mistakes.

[lenb]

Thats great Kevin, now you give me a kick in the butt to get my build log out here. It's a fun plane to build.

[kjkavaney]

Counting on your experiences Len...

[kjkavaney]

This is not a "paint by numbers" kind of kit. one has to anticipate when to do what which has required me to give pause and re think. The slow setting Aliphatic glue has resulted in a few "drifting"
alignments but I think it will all work out. Pete has been clever in that on the rudder and fin, he uses a 1/64" plywood as the backbone and then one builds one side and then the other. since there are laser marks on the wood, no need to build on the plans. I was dreading having to cut up the 10 foot by 3 foot long plans to fit on the build table. Sheeting the fin is next and that could be a challenge with Aliphatic glues around those curves...
BTW...the picture of the little kid on Mosquito's bio is Tim when he was just a little kid here in Minneapolis just a few blocks away from where I live now.

[ARUP]

Good deal! I am going to buy a kit whenever the next production run occurs so I'm interested in the build! Thanks for posting!

[lenb]

MIchael.

I have the last two positions open for the Smelly Yaks, we are producing 5 more kits, 3 are sold..

Text me and I'll put you on the list.

Len

[Tango Juliet]

Dang! If I was more caught up in my build pile I'd order one too! But I've got far too many projects as it is.

[ARUP]

All right TJ... get busy you loafer!

[Tango Juliet]

I have not yet begun to procrastinate!

[kjkavaney]

Quick note to other builders: when Pete lasers the rudder post "inner rudder post or fin post" that means it should be the closest to the hinge...NOT closest to the control surface...major screw up on my part...screwed up....crap. beginners luck I guess...probably more seasoned builders would have caught this on the plans but they are NOT labeled as such...

[Stew2]

My Dad used to say "You can only tell how good a carpenter is by how well he fixes his mistakes..." This of course gives me unlimited opportunity to be a master carpenter on every build. I am still studying!!!

[kjkavaney]

Thanks Stew2...this is still easier than doing total scratch building which drove me nutz...

[kjkavaney]

now onto horizontal stab. Pete says don't need to build on the plans but I chose to. THe spruce spars had twisted a bit sitting in the box, and I needed weights to keep everything square...I did about 5 sessions today, an hour apart to let the Aliphatic dry. I had read that copied plans often leads to distortions in the copied ones...Pete was clear that using the shear webs for distances between ribs..by the ends of the stab, about 1/4" too wide on the plans...this is not to DIS Pete...I think it is all in the copying and the best thing is to put the ribs on with shear webs on each gluing of a rib to assure the right distances...also need weights to keep glue joints closed both horizontally and vertically...unless you are using CA which most everyone else probably will do..

[Stew2]

To me, here in-lies the best advantage to the laser cut CAD designs, the parts rule!! The plans now become more of a document of what goes where and the parts tell you the required spacing. Remember, the plans don't stay with the parts once you pull the assembly from the board... In the day of hand cut parts and especially no pre-cut shear webs, the plans were essential to building symmetrical and properly spaced assemblies, but now the accuracy and consistency of the parts trumps what any piece of paper says. I don't sweat any mismatch with plans when working with kits and designs like this one. The parts rule. The proof is, lay a straightedge on the airfoils, they will be perfectly lofted/spaced by the parts, the plans would screw that up by not having the correct spacing. This is exactly why Pete will say, building over the plan is unnecessary.

[kjkavaney]

Totally new experience for me since I was the guy cutting each sheer web by hand on previous builds...Like the BUSA Super Cub Larry Sorenson and I bashed by putting a DA-150 into it !!! Still flying after 10 years and hundreds and hundreds of tows by Larry.