Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Hangar 9 ASW-20

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • French1
    replied
    bob,

    it will work for sure but I am not sure you will get more performance than the recommended setting, you are using a lower KV motor running less amps with more volts.

    the recommended motor is running the same prop with kv 470 and 6S @ 80Amps so 1600W

    For more power I would increase the prop with your setting it will probably reach 2000W without going too far for the Hacker motor

    Stéphane

    Leave a comment:


  • BobR
    replied
    Stephane,

    Here is my projected set up any thoughts?

    Bob

    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • French1
    replied
    After picking up a dolly at Cumberland I decided to mount it and to keep it foldable.

    Used for that 1/2x1/2 poplar stick, CA and wood screw on one side and Bolt and wings nuts on the other side.

    It will let me be able to fold it and pack it in the car if I am driving far, for flying at the field around it will stay up together

    here is couple pictures, hope to have some video this week end

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    Stéphane

    Leave a comment:


  • JimD
    replied
    I got the maiden flight and one more in late in the day Wednesday...totally a none event, meaning no drama...it flew just like I had been flying it for a hundred times before!

    The third flight was on Monday. Bob gave me a nice high tow with his Bidule 170 and we were able to work the light lift for a good ten plus minutes. The landing approach and touch down were totally predictable and the spoilers are very effective.

    This sailplane is like an old pair of comfortable shoes, you know the flight you are about to make will feel good and you can be relaxed while flying. The design and final product are a hone run.

    My only issue, a very minor one, was with the rudder pull-pull cable installation. We made a slight modification to the crimping procedure and got the cables to be much more secure and with proper tension.

    Leave a comment:


  • lenb
    replied
    Good update and tips Stephane.
    Watching that plane fly this past week sure exemplifies the effort that was put into getting this sailplane as perfected as possible before they released it.
    Jim flew his also this weekend and said he enjoyed the way it flew. We should hear more about that soon.

    LEN

    Leave a comment:


  • French1
    replied
    So after a long week end playing with my new toy here is the Cumberland test verdict :

    this is the fourth aerotow with that plane for me this year, I flew it about 14 days between maiden flight on my field, the MRCA aerotow, the WRBP Aerotow, HH Aerotow and Cumberland Summer Aerotow.

    Durability is quite good, had couple hard landing without big issues, I just stripped one of the blind nut of the stab and replaced it. Fuse is holding well together, nice improvement from the Blanik, didn't had to put any re enforcements in the fuse.

    Couple of useful advises :

    The prop is very nice but according to the fact that it is quite long, DO NOT BACKUP your plane using the tail, one of the blade will stick in the ground and damage the end of the prop. Either use a rubber band to get the prop locked on the fuse and remove it before flying or mount a small spring to keep the blade folded, last option, keep a spare set in your toolbox!

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    Tow hook : Like the blanik, the piano wire can bend, better to use a stiffer one, and as this wire is far from the epoxy skin, there is quite some leverage on this skin that lead mine to split at the seam and can still hold the towline even if the servo has released it. Corrective action : Enlarging the hole up to the plywood and fill the gap between skin and plywood with epoxy and filer (curing tonight...)

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    Canopy lock : the mechanism is short but you can increase length as the brass tube is screwed on a threaded piano wire. So unscrew it to the proper length and set it in place with a droplet of CA

    Retract doors : The plywood hook to close the door using a rubber band is not offering enough surface to hold the landings, both of mine are gone and have been replace by some small music wire stuffed in the epoxy

    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

    That's it for now

    Stéphane



    Leave a comment:


  • ARUP
    replied
    Vintagesailplaner.com has some nice pull-pull set ups and other goodies!

    Leave a comment:


  • Xroadie
    replied
    Originally posted by AGriffith View Post
    Also, Aztec Aeromodels has some VERY SLICK pull pull tensioners from Secraft that make pull pull installation much less painful than crimping.
    http://www.aztechaeromodels.com/inde...product_id=112
    I used a HiTec
    HS-7956SHR Rudder Servo in my 1/2 scale KA6. It came with Seacraft Hardware for the Pull Pull set up! Excellent engineering and quality!

    Leave a comment:


  • Swiss1
    replied
    Simple resistor just turns excess voltage into heat, the regulators will be a 1 minute install!

    Jeremy and Ben
    SCC AAA TT TN

    Leave a comment:


  • lenb
    replied
    THATS COOL TOO........

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve P
    replied
    I'm a huge fan of KevCord from Aerospace Composite Products. Has never failed me and is outfitted with the pieces / parts for RC applications.

    Leave a comment:


  • lenb
    replied
    Originally posted by AGriffith View Post

    Also, Aztec Aeromodels has some VERY SLICK pull pull tensioners from Secraft that make pull pull installation much less painful than crimping.
    http://www.aztechaeromodels.com/inde...product_id=112
    I saw those pull pull dohickys at the Horizon Aerotow. Very cool. I've gotta get some of those!!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • ARUP
    replied
    Jeremy, please bring the regulators for nice plug and play. But would a simple resistor work? They cost pennies but would take a little time soldering in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • AGriffith
    replied
    Originally posted by GliderGuyz View Post
    I am curious about the pull-pull cable included and if people are using that or are you going to a stronger one like Sullivan #S520 (Tower Hobbies) ?
    60 lb coated leader line from a fishing shop is better, stronger, and way less expensive than any model related pull pull cable, or thats what they buy and cut it up and quadruple the price. They also have crimp sleeves by the 100 pack.

    Also, Aztec Aeromodels has some VERY SLICK pull pull tensioners from Secraft that make pull pull installation much less painful than crimping.

    Leave a comment:


  • Swiss1
    replied
    Michael, I have 2 of the SPMVR5203 for you, we can install them in Cumberland!

    Jeremy and Ben
    SCC AAA TT TN

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X