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Hangar 9 ASW-20

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  • lenb
    replied
    Originally posted by GliderGuyz View Post
    I am curious about the pull-pull cable included and if people are using that or are you going to a stronger one like Sullivan #S520 (Tower Hobbies) ?
    I went with a stronger one from my fish and tackle shop

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  • Steve P
    replied
    Originally posted by ARUP View Post
    For stepping down voltages would it be possible to insert an appropriate resistor on the servo power line? I would think that a servo driving the retract and ones for spoilers won't be operating that much so heat buildup shouldn't be an issue, right?
    The Spektrum voltage regulator is just the ticket for stepping down a servo or two like retract... https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/...odID=SPMVR5203

    Leave a comment:


  • ARUP
    replied
    It looks to be plenty strong for the job. I am putting mine together hoping to have it ready for Cumberland.
    For stepping down voltages would it be possible to insert an appropriate resistor on the servo power line? I would think that a servo driving the retract and ones for spoilers won't be operating that much so heat buildup shouldn't be an issue, right?

    Leave a comment:


  • GliderGuyz
    replied
    I am curious about the pull-pull cable included and if people are using that or are you going to a stronger one like Sullivan #S520 (Tower Hobbies) ?

    Leave a comment:


  • JimD
    replied
    Originally posted by GliderGuyz View Post
    I am almost ready to go with my new ASW 20. I am going pure glider so I have to glue some weight in the nose. Has anyone else added weight this way? Did you just epoxy in the nose area?
    There are a number of ways to do this...one issue with a large quantity of epoxy is that it gets hot as it cures. If you just mix it up with the lead shot and pour it into the nose it can get hot enough to distort the fiberglass fuselage.

    How we did ours:

    First, using heavy aluminum foil, we pre-formed the foil into a cone shoe and then pushed the foil tightly into place inside the nose cavity.

    The sailplane was placed on the balance stand with a small plastic cup suspended under the nose of the sailplane.

    Lead shot was added to the cup until the sailplane balanced.

    The lead shot was weighed, it took 28 oz. to balance our model which was built as a pure sailplane.

    Four onces of the shot was removed from the cup and set aside.

    The foil "cone" was removed from the nose and placed until a holder with the nose down (as though the sailplane was sitting nose down).

    About two onces of slow set epoxy was mixed and then poured into the cup of lead shot and then throughly mixed into the shot.

    This was then poured into the aluminum cone and allowed to cure overnight.

    The next day, the foil cone was test fitted into the nose of the sailplane and it "keyed" right into place!

    Clear silicon glue (bathtub sealer type glue) was liberally applied to the cone and then it was dropped into the nose and pressed snugly into place. A bead of silicon glue was added around the perimeter of the cone to lock it into place. The sailplane was secured in a nose down position overnight to let the silicon glue cure.

    The sailplane was placed back onto the balance stand and one once was needed to achieve perfect balance, so the silicon glue was about one once. We used four 1/4 oz segmented lead weight and screwed it to the plywood former in the nose. This allows for the weight to be removed if flight proves too nose heavy.

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  • GliderGuyz
    replied
    I am almost ready to go with my new ASW 20. I am going pure glider so I have to glue some weight in the nose. Has anyone else added weight this way? Did you just epoxy in the nose area? Also I'm still waiting for the tow release servo.

    Leave a comment:


  • French1
    replied
    And here is the wiring diagram

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  • French1
    replied
    Originally posted by ARUP View Post
    Stephane, being that I am very ignorant about sailplanes and many others things would you give detailed instruction how to connect 5v battery to spoiler and retract? Do you use regulators in line with the retract and spoilers or do you use a separate battery to drive them?
    Mike I have use with success a 6v and 4.8v battery setup in case I need to power up something with a lower voltage.
    In this case you need to create a specific harness :

    From the servo to be powered by the secondary battery, connect the - of the receiver to the - of the secondary battery and to the - of the servo. Connect signal wire from the receiver to the servo and connect the + of the secondary battery to the + of the servo.

    In the case of the ASW-20 as you need to connect the spoilers and the retract, it get much more complicated, I would suggest going with the spectrum voltage regulator that has two ports, on for the spoilers one for the retract, inline from the receiver to the servos

    Stéphane

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  • Swiss1
    replied
    Michael, you can use a separate 4 cell 4.8V battery or use an SPMVR5203 which is a dual output regulator for $29.99!
    If yo need one let me know.

    Jeremy and Ben
    SCC AAA TT TN

    Leave a comment:


  • ARUP
    replied
    Stephane, being that I am very ignorant about sailplanes and many others things would you give detailed instruction how to connect 5v battery to spoiler and retract? Do you use regulators in line with the retract and spoilers or do you use a separate battery to drive them?

    Leave a comment:


  • French1
    replied
    Here is a video to give some courage to Mike



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  • ingrahal
    commented on 's reply
    Great video!!! Your videos are always very well done.

  • BobM
    replied
    Just wanted to write a quick note and mention that Dan Fitzgerald (danfitz from another airplane/rc model site.........something groups I think ?) makes covers for the ASW-20 that fit really well. My set included individual wing covers, a full cover for the horizontal stab removed for travel and a vertical stab cover that fits on the tail of the fuselage. Pricing was $165 for the set.

    I had a set made for me a few weeks back and I think I had them in less than a week from when I sent him a pm.

    I am having him make a set of covers for my 1/3 scale Fox now also. This will have a full fuselage cover to protect the graphics.

    I'll be putting together my ASW-20 in just a couple weeks here when school ends. Should have it flying by the beginning of July if not sooner.

    Bob

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  • French1
    replied

    well guys,

    that was wires as the slave was a DX7 that does not have the wireless capability. Very simple

    here is the vid of last weekend with the ASW-20

    Leave a comment:


  • Swiss1
    commented on 's reply
    Gunny, all the new Spektrum Gen2 radios are wireless, you should buy one, and I can help you out with that!

    Jeremy and Ben
    SCC AAA TT
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