40% Ka-3 part scratch part kit

[lenb]

Learking in the corner

[SteveNeill]

Lurking in the other corner.

[Gene C]

How does it go, the end justifies the means or is it the means justifies the end, what ever the leading edge sheeting is now complete on both wings. Masking tape was the clamp of choice as the sheeting was moistened with a mixture of ammonia and water, tape was applied from the lower sheeting to pull the sheeting back to the spar. This was left to dry before ironing the sheeting down working from the center of the wing outward.
While glue was drying the spoiler parts were silver soldered together in preparation for mounting in the wing.

[SteveNeill]

Beautiful work Gene.

[Gene C]

Finished gluing cap strips to the top outboard section of both wings before looking at the spoiler installation as this needs to be completed before the inboard cap strips are applied. The wing kit assembly is straight forward but with the exception of the spoiler mounting. As per plan and instructions the spoilers are permanently mounted to the wing ribs and cover sheeting. A change need to be made so the spoilers could be removed from the wing if needed. This took some thought, but in the end two brackets mounted to the spar shear webbing were made. This carries the spoiler pivot tubing and captures the spoiler so there is no side movement. A single pin provides the pivot needed for the spoilers and is removable.
As per full size drawing a plywood cover was cut from 1/32nd ply to the 40% scale size with a 1/16th balsa filler to make the total height 3/32 equal to the bass wood cap strips. To glue this in place now or work on the spoiler drive has yet to be determined.

[Gene C]

Worked on the servo mounts and linkage. The servo keeper also locks the pivot pin in place.
Short spoiler actuation video

https://youtu.be/DNYXykP_TRg

[gunny11]

Cool Gene, neat stuff!

[Gene C]

Thanks gunny11,

[Gene C]

Finished up the cap strip and sheeting on top of both wings. It was then time to clean off the workbench and place the moving pad on for work on the bottom surfaces. This keeps the hanger rash to the top of the wing at a minimum while working on the bottom. The 3/32 bass wood cap strips were glued and clamped with my next to favorite clamp, a modified cloths pin. An old eye drop bottle makes for a precise application of glue. That is unless your trying to place glue with your left hand while taking a photo with the right. The aileron servo hatch was fitted but will not be glued in place until the ailerons are rigged to insure proper location of the lower exit slot. Wiring of the wing is next as it needs to be done before sheeting the root section is glued to the bottom of the wing.

[Gene C]

After reviewing the Ka-3 restoration photos (all 450) sent to me by Wolfgang Schaeffler of D-5151, the decision to sheet the forward area of the tips was made. This will provide a smooth contour from the constant chord at the spar to tip, both top and bottom. To make compound curves using sheet balsa is a major test of patience. Between rough fitting, soaking, forming, clamping, drying, finial fitting, gluing, clamping and drying one side of one tip takes a whole day. With a bit of finish work though they should be fine.

[gunny11]

Nice, came out good!

[SteveNeill]

Not and easy job. Been there many times myself. You did a great job be proud.

[Gene C]

Thanks,
Top of left tip is on the bench for today.

[Gene C]

Spent a go part of the day rigging the right aileron. Thanks to Dean Gradwell for sending up some supplies and tooling to do the job correctly. There were a few options for the top shackle but ended up making them out of 0.015 shim stock as per a full scale print found in the building manual. The lower connection used a modified Robart 4-40 clevis with a modified rod end connector. The threaded section was cut to approx 7/16 long and drilled thru with a #55 drill bit. In the process of drilling a #0 center drill was used to center the drill and countersink the end of the threaded section. This little countersink will be used to provide a stop on the cable when soldered. After the top cable was fitted the lower cable was pulled tight and marked at the end of the threaded section. When cut the very end of the cable was unstrung so to speak, fluxed and soldered, creating a wider diameter of cable. The threaded section was then heated with the soldering iron and allowed to drop down vertically to the surface of the fire brick. A good pull test assured that the cable was not going anywhere. Any fine adjustment can now be made at the lower control horn connection. The left aileron should take a little less time but a good fit still takes time.

https://youtu.be/yu9J5cZcx9M

[SteveNeill]

So pretty. Super nice rigging. I just got to build a wooden sailplane after I finish the Jantar. Inspiring work Gene.

[Gene C]

With just over a year into construction of the 40% Ka-3 sailplane, a reality check was in order to see just how far it has come. Working only on this part or that part, you tend to loose the total concept of the sailplane. The problem of assembling is it also showed just how much was left to do, and that’s before covering, painting and final rigging. Will back to working on this part or that part, but now there is an end result in my mind to keep me going.
Maybe I should have asked Santa for a larger workshop this year.

[SteveNeill]

I'm so impressed. Just gob stopping beautiful.