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Gene, I'm still following with great interest!
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Gunny
Aviation Concepts rc -
Took some time off from the Ka-3 build to attend the Hood River Glider Weekend. The (WAAAM) Western Antique Aeroplane & Automobile Museum was incredible and should not be passed up if in the area. It was the shot in the arm needed to re-energize the Ka-3 build.
Attention was placed on sheeting the stabilizers ‘D’ section before attempting the wing leading edge ‘D’ Section. The process will be the same but the stabs are much shorter in length. Half the process is now complete with the upper surface sheeting to be ironed down in a day or two after the glue between the sheeting and spruce leading edge is full dry.Comment
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Finished sheeting the upper stab surfaces and did a little epoxy work.Comment
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The dilemma was to fit the V tail stabs to a non covered fabric covered fuselage profile. With the use of some low tech tools and a piece of 1/64th plywood an imaginary fabric covering was fitted. It was then just a matter of fitting, scribing, sanding, fitting, scribing, sanding and so on for a half hour or so for each side. The outcome is very close with the final fitting to be after the fuselage is covered and before the stabs are finished. My hope is to have a clean gap edge between the stab and fabric covering that a piece of paper can just pass thru. Time will till.Comment
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Worked on a capstan drum drive for the aileron control today. The reasoning is that the 2 1/2†between the holes on the aileron horns can’t be duplicated inside the wing. Fitting a standard servo arm for the KM1203MD servo would be too small with not enough travel. The 0.886 dia of the drum should provide approx 1.2†of equal travel from the drum in either direction. The 0.032 dia steel cable will wrap 3/4 of a turn in both directions from the locking point inside the front recess and exiting on the center line of the drum. This also lines up with the scale wing slot openings in relation to the control horn. Robert small threaded clevises and 2-56 all thread rod will make up the cable end connections. At least that's the plan.
Addendum: Further testing with the transmitter and ruler showed a total travel in one direction of 0.50". When placed with the aileron horn movement the aileron deflection is 1.375 at the trailing edge in pencil tearms. The aileron chord is 4.25 lending to plenty of control.Last edited by Gene C; 11-01-2018, 04:28 PM.Comment
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Assembled the aileron servo boxes and and test fit the assemblies in position within the wing. Just to make sure the servo and drum would all fit thru the scale inspection hatch opening the test hatch opening was taped in position and given a try. The servo and drum dropped in without any problems although at an angle due to being a rather tight. The aileron servo boxes are now glued in place and curing nicely in the shop.Comment
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Cut free and hinged the ailerons but took a little time to verify the aileron drive concept before proceeding on to the facing stage.
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Fantastic stuff. A club member uses this technique in his 1/3 scale WWI plane.Last edited by gunny11; 11-09-2018, 05:17 AM.Gunny
Aviation Concepts rcComment
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Faced and radius the aileron leading edges. The 1/16th dia Stainless steel hinge pin is guided to each hinge pilot by way of a plastic tube resting in a routed channel on the back side of the aileron facing.Comment
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Very nice Gene....keep 'em coming!Comment
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Progress if only slight. Glued the 3/32 square bass wood cap strips in place on the ailerons. Located the full scale print in the shop and detailed the aileron to match. Sanding will be next before the wing aileron skirting can be fixed to the wing. Also after sanding the control horns can be epoxy in place and the upper cover glued on.Comment
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Sanded the ailerons and cut the upper wing aileron skirts. Also the aileron hinge pin end was properly bedded in the bottom of the aileron with final finishing yet to be done. Before the bottom skirt can be fitted the leading edge sheeting needs to be applied. The first time I did this type of procedure was back in the mid 80's on a XC sailplane, so it's like a new learning curve at this time. After it as cured for a day or two an application of ammonia and water mixture will be applied to the first inch or so to help in the form bending. When that has dried the bottom sheeting will be ironed permanently in place. Of course the wing will be will blocked to insure every thing is straight and true during the ironing.Comment
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This morning, the first edge was dampened with an ammonia water mixture then rolled, tapped, clamped and weighted.
A travel iron is usually used for shop work but the distance between ribs was a bit to far apart to cover both. Asked the wife (very politely)about using her clothes iron and got the look. A trip to the local thrift store and $2.15 later there was a used but new iron in the shop. The curve of the iron sides would mean that a straight rib to rib contact was not possible. Since the iron was a shop iron some modification was in order. After disassembling the iron a straight line was marked from the back corners forward that did not enter the water chamber. This was enough to provide a rib to rib straight line surface. It was then just a matter of belt sanding to curve to the marked line. Finishing was completed by radius and polishing the straight edge. A few more modifications to the covers and the iron was reassembled and checked for operation.
Now to iron on the lower sheeting tomorrow and roll the other wing sheeting.Comment
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WOW! over 5,000 views, OK, some are mine, but thanks to all of you that keep following this build.
Notched the bottom sheeting and cut the slots for the stainless steel strut brackets. Now that the strut brackets are bolted in place preparation for the top sheeting is next.Comment
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