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Really nice, I'll be checking in to note progress
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Spy photo from Pete’s basement. ;-)
Team PowerBox Systems Americas... If flying were the language of men, soaring would be its poetry.Comment
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Oh man! Now that is SWEET. Whoo hoo!
Cant wait for the 1-26...............................Gunny
Aviation Concepts rcComment
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Hope I can do justice to this kit...a monster for sure...
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Now that the spar location has been determined and the spar has been glued to the bottom wing sheeting, it is time to start gluing on the ribs.
The first two ribs are particularly important, because they are the starting point for the placement of the rest of the ribs. Also, the W1 root rib needs to be cut and both parts of W1 lean so as to be perpendicular to the wing tube/rod.
Locate all of the ribs and shear webs and note their orientation so that placing them in order as you progress with the build things will go smoothly.
Note the correct orientation of Sh1 and Sh2 so that they will provide the correct amount of tilt for W1.
Since W1 tilts (or leans), the notch in it needs to be sanded slightly so that it will sit snugly down over the spar. Note the daylight under the unaltered W1 here:
Using the TLAR method (That Looks About Right) an ink mark was added and the notch sanded to that mark.
Now W1 sits down firmly against the bottom wing sheeting.
We decided to fabricate a part to support the point where W1 is cut. The side of this part against W2 is vertical while the side next to W1 is cut to the tilt of the W1 and acts to support and to set the correct tilt. A large drafting square is very helpful in establishing a reference line for the ribs.
The aft end of W1 is added and aligned with the 1/2" offset that we determined earlier. Note the small section of wing sheeting added earlier.
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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From this point, add a shear web to the spar in correct sequence and orientation and this will set the placement of the next rib. The drafting square can be used to align each rib as you go.
Once you get beyond W5, check the wing tube insertion and tilt of W1.
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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Just a note of caution to save you grief when building the 1-26 wings...since the wing tapers from root to tip, the shear webs likewise taper from root to tip.
The way Peter designed the wing (for ease of building them on a flat surface) the shear webs have square corners on the bottom corners and taper on the top. Thus, the top corners are not square. This is easy to miss on a quick look, so be cautious that these are correctly oriented as you go along.
Top corner:
Bottom corner:
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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As you progress out the spar, you will not that W8 and W9 are solid under the spoiler area (other ribs have cutouts).
This is the location for the "spoiler servo mount" plate. This servo mount is custom made for use with the Spektrum A7050 Thin Wing Servo. This servo is unique in its size, torque, and mounting flanges and is highly recommended for this application. Using this servo will save lots of time and energy, because all of the hard work of alignment and attachment has been done for you!
Spend some time studying the plan and parts so that you orient this mounting plate in the correct orientation. Left wing is pictured her with the root of the wing to the right and tip to the left.
Once the correct orientation is established, mark 1/4" below the spoiler pocket and draw a line from the bottom rear corner of the spar cutout to this mark.
The front edge of the mounting plate is aligned with the rear corner of the spar cutout and the ink line you made on each side of W8 and W9.
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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Looking ahead, the depth of the wing tube socket is 13-1/6"
The wing sheeting will get trimmer at a point about 1/8" beyond the tips of the ribs. We marked 1/8" behind each rib and used a long straight edge to draw a line...things look very nicely aligned!
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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I really appreciate this build thread because I am on the list for one of these and given the mistakes I have made with the Czmelak, your input will be super valuable to me !!!Comment
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The "inspector" stopped by and all seems to be in good order!
As we measured earlier, the wing tube socket measured 13-1/16" deep. There is a 1/8" thick root rib doubler that will be added later, so that thickness must be taken into account.
The included wing tube is 36" long and we measured off 13-1/8" from one end (allowing 1/16" shorter than exact length) and marked the tube.
Thin CA was applied around the outside of the tube at this mark to harden the surface. Using a scroll saw, the tube was rotated in the blade to make a nice square cut across the tube.
Then the raw end was hardened with CA.
West Systems 404 filler and epoxy was used to glue the wing tube in place and the top shear webs were installed along with the 8-32 wing attachment T-nut.
The tube extends about 1/8" out from the W1 rib and this will insert into the 1/8" root rib doubler. (8-32 cap head screw is shown here)
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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With all of the ribs and shear webs in place, it is helpful to build a aileron before finishing out the outboard section of the wing. Locate the bottom aileron skin, ribs A1-A14, plywood horn mount, and balsa leading edge strip. Carefully glue the ribs to the bottom skin using the etched marks on the skin as a reference.
Check the orientation of the horn mount so that the slot in it and the wing skin are aligned.
Place the leading edge balsa strip against the ribs and mark the location of the horn mount.
Cut a slot in the balsa leading edge angling the slot to match the angle of the ribs and test fit.
Add pieces of masking tape to assist in holding the leading edge in place while glue dries.
Glue on the leading edge and apply a weight bar to holds things flat while the glue dries.
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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The two parts that make up the aileron servo mount were laminated and glued in place between W15 and W16.
The 1/8" thick balsa trailing edge was added to the ribs and then the aileron was placed to set the position for partial rib A14b
The wing trailing edge gets trimmed down to the height of the ribs to finish out the aileron cutout area.
Balsa strips added to complete the spoiler pocket area and a scrap piece of balsa added along the top side of the ribs to complete boxing off the area.
The two pieces of plywood that make the spoiler are laminated together and orientation marked for future reference.
The parts for the aileron servo mount were assembled and correct orientation marked for future reference.
Time now to make the top spar. We used a piece of aluminum angle to help hold the spar parts together while the scarf joint epoxy cures. Wax paper keeps the epoxy from sticking to the aluminum.
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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Spars can vary slightly in their dimensions, so check the fit of the upper spar before gluing. Ours was slightly higher than the ribs, so with a little sanding of the rib notches and shear webs, we got it to fit nice and level with the top of the wing ribs. Time to glue!
Paving bricks make great weights and, because they are very uniform in size, they can be useful supports for building. Here they keep the wing nice and flat!
A Site for Soar EyesComment
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Your going to need a bigger workbench
Hope you can have her framed up by the spring Cumberland event. Are you going to put in the Scale tow release?Comment
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