Bidule 111

[Asher Carmichael]

I like the idea of having removable surfaces so when pin type hinges are used I go with Robart pins that are unassembled. They are available directly from Robart in both the 3/16" and 1/8" size. They use .055" music wire. The wire is "parkerized" using zinc phosphate to help prevent rust which might cause problems removing them in the future. A quick sanding to bright status and a 20 minute dunk in the solution with a good waxing afterwards does the trick. Pictures explain the idea. A piece of tape or a small screw along side the bent wire(if room allows) secures the wire.

[JimD]

Asher,

We (Stephane and I) decided to use Hitec HS-85MG servos for the rudders on the Bidule 111. The servos were attached to the covers with both screws and servo tape. These in turn are attached to the openings in the underside of the stab.

[Asher Carmichael]

OK, makes sense.

[Asher Carmichael]

Jim/Stephane,
Are you using the hardware supplied with the kit, meaning control horn screws, clevises and control rods? They look pretty good to me but I have no experience with TopModel. I'm thinking I will use HH turnbuckles for the control rods.
I'm going with a 1.5L Fiji water bottle for the gas tank using PSP cap. It will fit nicely over the wingrod tube and still allow access to the wing retainer screws. This also places it on the CG, where I like it. Photos of install later.

[JimD]

Mostly, I have changed everything out to DuBro hardware. Have not looked at the control horns for the ailerons and flaps yet. I used the TopModel control horns on my Porters but DuBro 4-40 pushrods and clevis'. We will see.

[Asher Carmichael]

I opted to use JR. DS 378's for the rudders as I had several on hand. I installed ply mounting rails into the servo bays as shown. A balsa spacer, slightly wider than the servo, was zapped to the rails to hold them in alignment while the epoxy set. I used West 105 and cabosil to glue the rails in place. The ply rails were trimmed to length so the assembly could be fish-tailed into the opening. The balsa was trimmed away after the epoxy set.

I cobbled together some vibration grommets and eyelets from old servos since the 378's don't come with them. I discovered after the fact that addition of the isolators caused the head of the screws to sit slightly proud of the opening. A quick change to a thinner head screw solved the problem. If I had it to do again I would add a 1/8" doubler at the ends of the rails so that they would sit lower in the opening. We'll see how these servos hold up in this application. Luckily, the purring of a DA 100 will mute the "singing" that 378's are known for.

[Asher Carmichael]

Here's a new take on wing retainers. I am repositioning the fuel tank over the wing rod and CG and decided I needed a different retaining system since it would be problematic trying to install the plastic thumb screws supplied in the kit. I fumbled around for awhile and stumbled across these snap latches at McMC. One per side near chord center should be plenty. I used a 10-24 screw to hold the stub and installed a plate with T nut in the root of the wing. The pics and video should explain it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvIbIjWdzyY

[Steve P]

Nice move, Asher. Interested to see how they work over time with vibration and such. Making the wing attachment easier is a major improvement.

I have plans to get in on the next Bidule order for a 111. Put a DA120 in the nose, three blade prop and add canisters for quiet. Should be a champ of a tow plane that is easy to transport.

I flew tow on Len's 170 with the ZDZ180 this past weekend at Cumberland for about six hours cumulative time. An absolute joy in every respect.

[Asher Carmichael]

Steve,
A 111 with a 120 should be more than adequate for most anything. Glad to hear you think the Bidule is a winner.

Yes, I have considered vibration and I'll keep a watch on it. Adjusting the tension on the screw will help with slop which may reduce vibration problems. If it gets out of hand, I plan to turn a stub out of delrin to see if that solves the problem. Failing that, I may have to revert to the screws and slide the tank around during field assembly, ala BobM. Not a big deal.

[French1]

So my turn to post

Worked tonight on pushing back the tank closer to the CG with maintaining accessibility to the wings nuts.

I first glued some 1/2 x 1/2 in poplar to the side of the fuse with slow set epoxy and floc notching everything for it to fit tight

Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

Then cut some plywood in order to provide some more length

Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

Et voila!

Just couple screws to be mounted and we should be done with the plumbing

Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

Stéphane

[Asher Carmichael]

Welcome aboard Stephane. I guess it's you and me with the 111's for awhile.

[Asher Carmichael]

Here are some pics of how I split the cowl, added FG flanges and 4/40 "t" nuts in 1/8" ply to secure the cowl halves. The first pic shows Tesa tape added as a release on the upper call. Also used some PVA. 2nd shows everything taped up ready to receive FG. 3rd shows 3 layers of 9oz, 1" wide FG tape. Strips cut to length after saturating with resin.

[Asher Carmichael]

More pics

[Xroadie]

Nicely done Asher!

[Swiss1]

More pics

There's a reason we keep you around, always a nice clean solution!

Jeremy and Ben
SCCAAA TT TN