Bidule 111 v2.0

[jfrickie]

If you remove the Teflon tape from the headers and replace it with this,,, https://www.rescuetape.com/,,, you wont have any oil leaks at the flex joint. I rewrapped the headers on a 3W170 3 years ago and after numerous flights the headers are still leak free. I'm also using it on a canister install I'm doing on a H9 Pawnee I'm building

[blake]

Thanks for the rescue tape tip!

Moving along with my build...

The new servo arm for the nosegear steering showed up, so that got installed right away.



I also got the headers welded after I figured out the correct drop that was required. They will be mounted this weekend, along with the mufflers.



And the Ignition box has been installed in the forward fuselage, along with the start of the fuel system.





My first time dealing with Jeremy from The Model Box, as he had the much needed Power Safe RX. I found out that I was his very first Canadian customer! Thanks Jeremy for the great service.



So that means that I can get on with setting up all of the channel assignments and servo throws. I must be getting close to the end of this build?!?!?!?

Later guys

Blake

[blake]

I got the header pipes and mufflers installed today.




And more of the fuel system.



One thing I went back to was the nosegear.
After talking with several Bidule owners, most of them had trouble with the lower yoke screw coming loose or even falling out. I replaced the small metric screw with an AN3-5a aircraft bolt and used plenty of Loc-tite to hold it in. Once it was installed, I went ahead and put some Goop around the bolt head for added security. Added after photo was taken. I couldn't go right through with the bolt as this bolt is in line with the cross bolt that acts as the main pivot point. Unlike the big Bidule where there are two bolts at this location. In this photo you can see that I replaced all of the metric socket head screws in teh nosegear with 3/16" AN bolts and MS steel lock nuts.




More to come....

[blake]

Moving right along I tackled the cowling today.

A rather intimidating task to say the least, especially since I have never done one before!

Again, I followed Jim's lead and took my time measuring lots, and cutting a little bit at a time..



I found the hardest part of the job was actually getting the cowling on over the engine! You really have to apply some muscle and flex it a lot to get it on and in place.




Once it was trimmed enough to fit, the subsequent fittings went quicker with less force required. Then it was just a matter of slowly enlarging the holes around the cylinders, leaving some extra space for the rubber trim piece that will be fitted shortly. I used the spinner backing plate to align things, keeping everything in position.



Looks pretty good from the front!



Tomorrow I will locate and drill the cowl mounting screws, and keeping everything aligned with the spinner backing plate in place. You can see the .125" plywood shims to keep the spinner away from the front of the cowling.

I also got some help today from Len. He walked me through the servo assignment and helped me locate the controls on the TX. Thanks Len!


Later guys.

Blake

[Steve P]

Looks great!

On my 111 #2 with a DA 120 I went with larger cutouts around the cylinders as in a long summertime tow sessions (tow after tow after tow) my DA 100 was getting pretty darn hot when sitting in idle waiting for some of the more slow poke sorts to hook up. We shall see since I haven’t had the opportunity or need to put #2 into service.

You’re going to love the 111. Thanks for sharing your build.

[blake]

Thanks Steve.

Are my clearance holes OK, or should I make them a bit larger?

Blake

[Steve P]

You’re fine. Can always make bigger in the future, but you can’t go back and make ‘em smaller.

[lenb]

Happy to help Blake and aways nice talking with you. Your cowl fit looks superb. I'm pleased your fitting the cowl from the start, not like Stephane who felt the need to go bra less for the first couple years and didn't fit the cowl to the motor.

[blake]

So most of today was taken up with the figuring out servo travels and proper directions.
Again, with several interventions from Len, I think I have things pretty well squared away.
I was able to move all surfaces in their proper directions, so now I just have to finish up with the correct throws.

I must say it was quite a learning process, but made a lot easier with Len's help and the fact that the DX-18 has so many set up features.






I do have a question for other 111 fliers, Stephane and Steve come to mind. How much elevator-flap compensation are you guys using?
Len didn't really know so he said to ask you guys...LOL!
Also, how much flap in both positions are you guys using?

Thanks

Blake

[blake]

Here is the end result of my cowl fitting exercise.....



Another view



Still working on cleaning up the wiring and little things like that.
More tomorrow.....

[blake]

DONE!

Ready for it's maiden at Cumberland in March.




I re-purposed the original box from the Bidule to make a carrier for my indoor airplanes. That's what it's sitting on in the photos as its the perfect height for working on the guts of the fuselage..

.



Now I can get back to my DG-505 build, it's sitting on the workbench in the background in the first photo.



Later guys

Blake

[lenb]

Well done Blake.
Looking foreword to seeing both planes in Cumberland !

[blake]

Thanks Len,

At least now I have a hard deadline to get the 505 completed...LOL!

Blake

[Sinkhappens86]

Sweet! Always great to have another towplane and pilot at events. Looking forward to seeing it in action.

[blake]

Thanks Kevin.

So am I after all of this work on it.

Blake

[Steve P]

Back to the original subject of this thread, Bidule 111 v2.0 built by Jim is still going strong.

After thousands of tows, the white mounting block for front gear finally failed at the Cumberland Summer Soar. It cracked, freeing the top two bolts. There appeared to be no damage other than the block. French1 brought along a new front gear and when about to replace it, we noticed one canister was crushed when the wheel folded back.

The canisters were to be replaced at the end of this season, so no great loss (the motor was rebuilt by DA last fall when it was sent in for a health check — and they said none too soon as the pistons were about to let loose).

Once getting home and doing a little bit more inspection I saw that the bottom two bolts torqued and cracked the bottom of the firewall. Some wood repair and many clamps solved that. I had put away a new front gear and a set of nice new bolts.

After speaking with Peter Goldsmith I decided to replace the MTW 75K canisters with the Evolution 62 canisters. The price differential is $165 each shipped for the new 80 version of the MTWs versus $99 each shipped for Evolution. French1 swears by these, so it seemed well worth trying at a $132 differential!

The Bidule is back and ready for Windy Ridge. Tow you there.


One can never have enough clamps



FedEx delivered the goods! Nicely packaged there, Horizon.


They fit the K&S Comfort Mounts perfectly. Cans are about 3/8” shorter.



Ready to tow…