Bidule 111 v2.0

[JimD]

There are comparable Spektrum servos that would be nearly identical fit and specifications.

A6150 HV High Torque Metal Gear
A6265 HV Digital Hi-Torque MG

[Swiss1]

All available from The Model Box, just a shameless commercial!!

[DVG]

Hey Jim,
Don here in San Diego, I had purchased the 111 a couple years past had many tows on this model great flyer. Couple weeks past my radio failed during approach and wen in what we call the jungle. Parlamar RC flyers field, 15 north and 76 junction, There is probably over 100 planes in this area. it is so over grown can't even walk thru it. I tried and now I'm covered in Poison Oak,ugh. We did put up a couple drones but no luck, DA 120, spectrum power save receiver. built to your spec. I have placed an order for one thru Icare but it looks like three months out. I was wondering if there is a used one around to be had? I tow for the Horizon team here in san diego that do the triangle racing so it important to me to have good equipment for the job. Ask around back there for me you never know. I like the 111 cause it will fit in my Honda Odyssey with my 3rd scale ASW 24 thanks for asking around for me Don

[blake]

Seeing as how I'm usually a few years behind everyone else as far as airplanes builds are concerned, I thought I would post this here as I'm finally getting around to finishing up my Bidule 111.

Question for the experts out there...

How do I plumb the header and main tank? I have zero experience in setting up this type of fuel system so I'm hoping some of you will chime in here!?!?

If you look at the photo you can see that I hopefully have everything I need?

I have the stock tank that came with the kit and the smaller header tank that Jim and others have used.
Fuel dot, inline filter, gas conversion stopper for the header tank, fuel barbs, two different sizes of fuel line, etc.
I'm planning on safety wiring all of the fuel line connections.

Does the header tank have to be mounted at a certain height in relation to the main tank or engine?

A sketch or drawing would really help me on this.

Thanks
Blake

[Stew2]

It is very straight forward, the clunk of the header tank goes to the carb, the vent of the header tank goes to the clunk of the big main tank. I use a T fitting in the line between the header tank clunk and carb to tap in the filler line. The vent of the big main tank is simply the overflow vent of the entire fuel system.

[lenb]

Congrats Blake, thats awesome. Welcome to the Bidule owners and admirers club. The tank is as Scot describes, pretty simple although I would recommend NOT safety wiring them, instead use a small wire tie. Safety wire tends to cut the tubing. Also for long term simplicity, consider using Viton inside the tank. Its a black rubber tubing that doesn't get and stiff and brittle with age. (let the jokes begin)

[blake]

Thanks for the info Scott.

Too funny Len!

Where would I find Viton tubing?

Blake

[Stew2]

Dubro sells short lengths. Many small engine repair shops have viton tubing. McMaster Carr is an industrial supplier that sells it. I usually install the header tank sideways, though it truly does not matter. It just seems to be a more efficient use of space in the Bidules. The Dubro fuel line clips in your picture are very good.

[JimD]

Scroll down on this page, Viton tubing is 7th item on page.

Jersey Modeler

[blake]

Thanks for the Viton lead Jim.


Moving along with this build...

I finally found a use for those little elastic garters that hold servos to the cardboard backing.



These guys....



I present to you....a little helping hand for installing your wings when you use the MC latches.



Just a light push down to latch. I spaced the elastic height so it is basically just holding the weight of the slider. Very little actual pulling force.



I only installed them on the aft latches.



If you notice, I angled the latches slightly forward to aid in reaching them from the front of the airplane.

More tomorrow....

Blake

[blake]

Happy New Year to everyone out there in the Scale Soaring world.

First thing......as I was setting up the throttle, I noticed that the throttle plate can move in both directions! I am assuming it should rotate the same way as the choke plate? Meaning you can see the screw heads when open and closed? Right now that is how have it set.

The nosegear steering is set up now, just like Jim did his, but I changed the actual gear end of the pushrod, see below.



I reworked the internal threads of the pushrod to accept the 6/32 socket head bolt and Loctited it in place. I also used an MS aviation metal locknut on the vertical bolt. The rodends are the 6/32 Monster ones as Jim suggested to use. I cut the upper rodend a bit shorter to achieve the angle needed for slanted steering arm. Works like a charm,and no binding when cycled through it's range of travel.

At the servo end of the nosegear setup I don't know how much preload to put on the springs, so right now they are just snug against the block and wheel collars. Can someone chime in and offer what they have done please! I did push the fuselage back and forth the length of the workshop to get the steering centered.


Just a side note, Santa brought me a nice label maker so I tried it out today. Sure looks a lot nicer than masking tape and a felt pen!



So I finished off today with both the nosegear and throttle hooked up and operating. The choke servo is next to go in, so that will be tomorrow's job.



Later guys!

Blake

[Steve P]

Nice! The new style nose gear set-up works well. You will need a better servo arm than the one shown as even with the springs, the teeth in the arm will eventually fail from repeated shocks. Either use a heavy duty DuBro or go for metal. I'm using a Hangar 9 metal arm for two years and several hundred event tows with zero issues after quickly eating a few plastic ones.

[blake]

Steve,

Thanks for the input.
Is this the arm you were talking about? 1" in length or the longer 1.5" arm?


Do you see anything else in my build that is questionable?

Blake

[blake]

Or can I use the standard metal arm that came with the servo?

[stevekremer]

Blake,

Use the blue horn shown in Post 99. It is metal

Steve K

[blake]

Steve K

Thanks, I have a bunch of those on hand so I will use one of them.

Blake

[blake]

While I'm waiting for the Viton fuel line to show up, I continued on with the engine control hook ups, namely the choke.

I glued a thin plywood doubler on the side of the fuselage before mounting the servo there. And I checked the clearance of the throttle linkage before committing to placing the servo where it ended up.

Pretty straight forward installation. Should be, as I just copied what Jim did in his build...LOL!



Good clearance of the linkages from the carb and exhaust areas. I used the PSP throttle and choke arms, and they worked out very well. All of the fasteners and set screws were installed with blue Loctite. The throttle arm does not rub on the carb body, bad angle for the photo. I paid careful attention to eliminating any side play in both of the shafts.






Then I got these guys out and started planning my way ahead with their installation. Any words of wisdom from anyone on what I should or shouldn't do...?




I don't think I will be getting Gunny's fancy extensions like Jim did. I will just cut the headers and weld in the little extension tubes once I measure the height needed for the exhaust canisters.

More tomorrow!

Blake