Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Some day it will sprout wings

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Gene C
    replied
    Working on the LK-10A control sticks, only halfway there but not a total waste of time.

    https://youtu.be/9aYNLh3n4pU

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    replied
    To have unison Aileron control stick movement it’s necessary to have four pulley units mounted to the lower longerons, located on both the left and right sides of the front and rear cockpits. The pulleys were first made from hardwood doweling, then there was a little wire bending, followed with some soldering. After painting the units could be assembled on the plywood bases. The completed pulley units could then be attached to the lower front cockpit longerons with epoxy. The use of some music wire, with balsa spacers, kept the units in position until the epoxy cured. The bottom of the pulley base was reinforced with a plywood gusset before some finishing touch up paint. Well that completes it for the front cockpit, its now on to the rear cockpit with hopefully the same results.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    replied
    Finished the wingtip skids and fuselage nose skid so it was back to work on the control sticks. The rear control stick unit is a bit more complicated than the front unit but with any luck the front and rear cockpit control sticks will move in unison.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve P
    commented on 's reply
    Love it!!!!

  • Gene C
    replied
    Been working on the nose skid and some cockpit detail but the wing tip skid is now on the front burner. After a buck was made then molded an epoxy-glass mixture was injected to the mold to form a repeatable wing tip skid. Just in case there may be need for more than two. There is some changes needed to the procedure yet it seems to evacuate all the air bubbles in the form, but practice makes perfect as they say.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    replied
    It is inevitable that at some point in a build the building tabs must go. Now on to the Left wing up to this point before finishing up on the wing tips.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Soaranator
    replied
    Beautiful work Gene! In the early 1970's the UCSD Soaring Club had a LK-10 and flew it at Torrey Pines. I was lucky enough to get a couple of rides in it there. Fun!
    Bill Liscomb

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    replied
    The LK-10A was assembled out side the shop for the first time for a reality check. Yep! lots of work remaining before it will be airworthy. Realizing that it's not from a noted kit or a $6k+ hollow molded carbon fiber slippership to attract views, just old fashion scratch building that takes a bit of time. My thanks to the small base that seems to be following the build as it slowly crawls along.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Gene C; 08-02-2020, 11:42 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    replied
    Another setback on the canopy bows, so it was back to wings. The time had to come for sheeting the wing leading edges, unfortunately it is only a start as there is a lot left before finishing the leading edge sheeting process.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • yyz
    commented on 's reply
    Very nice. Pro tip turning the wooden clothes pins inside-out. I'm stealing that.

  • Gene C
    replied
    I've been pondering the canopy releases for the LK for far too long, so the other day cutting started. After encountering a few issues the end result will work out nicely, only three more to make before the canopy bows can be attached permanently to the fuselage. Wings now with the Aileron diagonals and hing blocks glued in place were set aside while undertaking the canopy releases.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    replied
    In regard to your question the wing receiver tube is set in position thru the wing ribs and epoxy to the upper and lower spar filler blocks. A mixture of epoxy and filler is pressed into any open spaces then the surfaces and tube are covered with 3.2 oz glass cloth. This is followed by a cap of 1/8" vertical grain lite ply. When cured any voids will be filled and radius with a mixture of epoxy and filled glass. Now to find enough clamps to start the process again on the left wing.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • yyz
    replied
    Looks great! Curious to see how you tie the joiner receiver tubes to the spar caps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gene C
    commented on 's reply
    Well, maybe a few over the years

  • horsefeetky
    replied
    very clean build and by looking at the floor of your shop i think you have build a many others there...............

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X