Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Slingsby T-37 Skylark ~ 1/3-scale model by Peter Goldsmith (Build Thread by JimD)

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Slingsby T-37 Skylark ~ 1/3-scale model by Peter Goldsmith (Build Thread by JimD)

    Link to Peter Goldsmith Designs Web Page:

    https://www.petergoldsmithdesigns.co...lark-1-type-37


    This is the third giant scale sailplane designed by Peter Goldsmith that we have built. Many of the design elements were familiar to us having built the other two (40% Schweizer 1-26 and 1/3-Scale Slingsby Swallow), but the Skylark does have some unique features as well.

    Span: 188" (4.7m)
    Length: 85" (2.18m)
    Weight: 12-13 lbs. (%.6kg)
    Airfoil: Modified SD3021


    Most of the structure was built using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin. Wing, stab, and fin sheeting was applied using Deluxe Materials Speed Bond and a hot iron technique. Epoxy was used to laminate the spar joiners and center ribs. CA was used to tack several parts together to aid in assembly, and these joints were then reinforced using the Aliphatic Resin.

    Our build started by separating all of the parts from their sheets, lightly sanding off the nubs, and then sorting them according to the structure they belong to.

    Study the plan carefully so as to understand hos the parts fit together.

    Fin/Rudder

    The front of the fin has two pieces of balsa with predrilled holes for the hinge pins. One of these goes in front of the other. Use the rear piece (which has laser etched lines that mark the rib locations) and the rudder ribs R1-R8 to start construction. Laminate the plywood horn slot reinforcement piece to R9 making a left and right side. This assembly helps set the angle of the joint for R1.

    Note that this picture does not have the front of the rudder aligned over the plan correctly! Note the vertical line on the plan that bisects the hinge pin pivots and then move aft. There is another solid vertical line, then a dotted vertical line, and then another solid vertical line. The vertical balsa "rudder spine" should be aligned over the plan between the first solid line (aft of the hinge pivot line) and the dotted vertical line.


    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR001.JPG Views:	1 Size:	90.0 KB ID:	29104
    Ribs R2-R8 attach to the vertical spine at a 90 degree angle (unlike R1 that angles upward). Note the "feet" on the ribs that enable this structure to be built on its side on a flat surface. Because of the direction of the grain, these feet can easily be broken off, so use a light touch during the assembly process. You may consider applying small pieces of masking tape over these feet to sturdy them during construction. Again, note that this picture also does not show the correct placement of the parts over the plan. The entire assembly should be moved forward so that the rear edge of the spine is aligned with the dotted vertical line. The rear most solid vertical line represents the edge of the 1/6" x 1/2" balsa cap strip applied over the spine.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR002.JPG Views:	1 Size:	85.1 KB ID:	29100
    1/16" X 1/2" balsa strips are added and then the balsa LE is laminated onto the front. Temporary dowel pins make handy alignment tools.


    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR003.JPG Views:	1 Size:	127.5 KB ID:	29111
    The Rudder LE piece gets sanded to a "V" to allow for the movement of the rudder.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR004.JPG Views:	1 Size:	126.1 KB ID:	29109
    Cut the leading edge spine and the spars for the fin. It is helpful to mark where the ribs will be positioned on these parts.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR005.JPG Views:	1 Size:	85.8 KB ID:	29110
    Fit the ribs into place and check alignment over the plan, CA glue can then be applied to tack all of these parts together.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR006.JPG Views:	1 Size:	86.1 KB ID:	29101
    This fin structure can then be place onto the Trailing Edge Fin Post using the laser etched reference lines. A small weight was used to hold the parts tight together while the glue cured.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR007.JPG Views:	1 Size:	105.0 KB ID:	29105

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR008.JPG Views:	1 Size:	90.9 KB ID:	29107
    Hinge Point "donuts" are added and sides of fin are sheeted with the pre-cut 1/16" balsa sheeting.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR009.JPG Views:	1 Size:	89.6 KB ID:	29108

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR010.JPG Views:	1 Size:	98.7 KB ID:	29103
    Front of rudder gets block sanded and Fin LE attached.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR011.JPG Views:	1 Size:	109.7 KB ID:	29102

    Click image for larger version  Name:	FR012.JPG Views:	1 Size:	106.7 KB ID:	29106
    Last edited by JimD; 10-16-2018, 06:45 PM.
    A Site for Soar Eyes

  • #2
    Stab/Elevator

    Identify all the parts needed for the stab/elevator build. Note that the stab and elevators taper and build tabs (feet) are part of the parts design so structures can be built on a flat surface. These tabs are very delicate, so handle the parts gently. Small pieces of masking tape can be added to reinforce the tabs.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE001.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	123.7 KB
ID:	29120

    Start by laminating the center ribs together and gluing the "elevator servo plate" between ribs S3 and S4. Then add these to the Elevator TE.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE002.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	107.3 KB
ID:	29119

    Add the remaining ribs, spar, and leading edge. Note that the BOTTOM of the stab is facing upward here.


    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE003.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	141.7 KB
ID:	29122

    Carefully sand the leading and trailing edges to the contour of the ribs. You may want to put a balsa stick under the leading edge for support while you sand.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE004.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	115.8 KB
ID:	29121

    The stab gets a 1/16" balsa skin that is precut (but is slightly oversize). Locate the plywood servo cover door stop. This part will probably need to be trimmer a bit to fit between the spar and trailing edge. The key thing is for this part to fit tight against the S2 rib and for the three servo screw holes to be visible as you look down through this part into the servo mount. Note slight recess on the right side in the picture below. This allows access to the bottom servo mount screw (visible under this part in the picture. Hold the part against rib S2 and adjust the front and/or back sides to fit the part between the spar and TE and to center it over the servo mount tray below to allow access to all three servo mount screws.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE007.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	87.5 KB
ID:	29124

    Now glue the door stop to the inside of the precut bottom 1/16" balsa skin positioning it so the servo door will be supported by it.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE009.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	86.9 KB
ID:	29123

    Click image for larger version

Name:	SE010.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	93.1 KB
ID:	29118


    A Site for Soar Eyes

    Comment


    • #3
      Installing the Spektrum A7020 elevator servos.

      The long double arm (included with the servo) was used and one side was cut off. Servo was plugged into the receiver and centered so arm could be correctly positioned.

      Servos were screwed to the mounting plate using the screws that came with the servos. (You may want to add a dot of Zap Goo to the bottom of the servo mounting screws.)
      Next, route the servo leads out through the openings before adding the lower skins.



      Click image for larger version  Name:	SE014.JPG Views:	1 Size:	91.4 KB ID:	29126
      Last edited by JimD; 08-27-2018, 04:32 PM.
      A Site for Soar Eyes

      Comment


      • #4
        Use a scrap piece of 1/16" balsa to make a spacer between E2 ribs.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE016.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	64.2 KB
ID:	29129

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE017.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	90.2 KB
ID:	29130

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE018.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	89.1 KB
ID:	29128

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE019.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	93.2 KB
ID:	29131

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE020.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	95.2 KB
ID:	29133

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE021.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	90.9 KB
ID:	29132

        Click image for larger version

Name:	SE022.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	91.4 KB
ID:	29134





        A Site for Soar Eyes

        Comment


        • #5
          Locate the stab spar joiner (there may be two of these in the kit but only one is needed). Trim it to fit the taper of the stab and cut the openings in the S1 and S2 ribs to make a slot for the joiner to fit into between the top and bottom spars.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	SE005.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	85.5 KB
ID:	29136

          Add top spar and sand leading and trailing edges to the contour of the ribs.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	SE006.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	84.6 KB
ID:	29137

          Add the hinge point reinforcement donuts.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	SE023.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	105.2 KB
ID:	29138

          Add the top skins to finish.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	SE024.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	87.2 KB
ID:	29139


          A Site for Soar Eyes

          Comment


          • #6
            Wings

            There are two ways to approach building the wings.
            1) Build over the plan and use the plan to set rib spacing.
            2) Build over the bottom sheeting and use the shear webs to set rib spacing. (This is the method that Peter prefers)

            This sequence shows using the plan. Note that it will be necessary to sand some of the shear webs slightly in order to get the rib spacing to match the plan.

            First, find all of the wing parts, remove them from the carrier, sand off the nubs, and sort them into right and left wing parts.


            Click image for larger version  Name:	W001.JPG Views:	1 Size:	110.1 KB ID:	29145

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W002.JPG Views:	1 Size:	112.2 KB ID:	29154

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W003.JPG Views:	1 Size:	104.6 KB ID:	29150

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W004.JPG Views:	1 Size:	119.4 KB ID:	29148
            Epoxy was used to laminate the center rib and the wing joiners. Note that there are pre-drilled alignment holes. Stick a large T-pin through these holes to maintain alignment while gluing.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W005.JPG Views:	1 Size:	96.6 KB ID:	29152

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W006.JPG Views:	1 Size:	111.0 KB ID:	29151
            Locate bottom spar and pace it over the plan.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W007.JPG Views:	1 Size:	57.2 KB ID:	29149
            Layout the ribs.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W008.JPG Views:	1 Size:	81.5 KB ID:	29146
            ...and the shear webs.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W009.JPG Views:	1 Size:	77.9 KB ID:	29153
            Glue the spoiler servo plate between ribs, place this assembly over the plan, then work both directions from there adding shear webs and then the next rib.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	W010.JPG Views:	1 Size:	78.9 KB ID:	29147

            A Site for Soar Eyes

            Comment


            • #7
              Click image for larger version

Name:	W011.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	29156

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W012.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	68.9 KB
ID:	29157
              Once all of the ribs and shear webs are glued in place, cut out the middle of the root and tip ribs to make the slot for the wing joiners.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W013.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	64.6 KB
ID:	29158

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W014.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	70.0 KB
ID:	29159

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W015.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	63.0 KB
ID:	29163
              We used the joiners to sent the spacing of the shear webs. The center joiner gets glued in while the outboard joiners are to be removable.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W016.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	94.6 KB
ID:	29160

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W017.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	73.7 KB
ID:	29165
              These TE parts can be installed in one of two ways. Building over the plan, they were used to maintain rib spacing and top rear sheeting was glued over them. If you are building over the bottom sheeting, they can be glued in standing vertically like mini shear webs at the front edge of the rear sheeting.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W018.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	78.7 KB
ID:	29161

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W019.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	91.7 KB
ID:	29164
              Wing bolt plates get laminated together and a taper sanded so they fit in place and follow the rib contour.

              Click image for larger version

Name:	W020.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	89.9 KB
ID:	29162

              A Site for Soar Eyes

              Comment


              • #8
                Click image for larger version

Name:	W021.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	88.2 KB
ID:	29167
                Rear sheeting, top spar, spoiler bay stringers, and leading edge are added. Then leading edge gets sanded to the contour of the ribs.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W022.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	61.2 KB
ID:	29169

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W023.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	66.1 KB
ID:	29172

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W024.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	56.2 KB
ID:	29171
                Cut a piece of 1/16" x 6" sheeting to size, fitting it around the spoiler bay.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W025.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	75.5 KB
ID:	29173
                Trim the pre-cut center sheeting to fit between the front and rear sheeting. Adding tabs helps reinforce the butt joint between these pieces of sheeting.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W026.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	82.2 KB
ID:	29174
                Deluxe Materials Speed Bond was used to apply the top sheeting. Apply glue to both sides of the joint, allow it to dry (turns clear), then use a hot iron to bind sheeting to structure.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W027.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	85.2 KB
ID:	29168
                Add cap strips.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W028.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	80.8 KB
ID:	29176
                Install Spektrum A7020 spoiler servo. Plug the servo into the receiver and check centering before adding the servo arm. The long double arm that comes with the servo is used with one side removed. Mounting screws that come with the servo are used to screw the servo to the mount plate.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W029.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	82.0 KB
ID:	29175
                A dab of Zap Goo was applied to the bottom of the mounting screws. Next, route the extension cable for the aileron servo through the inboard wing panel rib bays.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	W030.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	93.4 KB
ID:	29170

                A Site for Soar Eyes

                Comment


                • #9
                  Once the wiring is completed, the bottom sheeting can be added.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W031.JPG Views:	1 Size:	103.3 KB ID:	29178

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W032.JPG Views:	1 Size:	103.1 KB ID:	29180

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W033.JPG Views:	1 Size:	93.6 KB ID:	29184

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W034.JPG Views:	1 Size:	101.0 KB ID:	29183

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W035.JPG Views:	1 Size:	96.0 KB ID:	29181

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W036.JPG Views:	1 Size:	75.4 KB ID:	29186

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W037.JPG Views:	1 Size:	78.0 KB ID:	29179
                  Wing center panels are then permanently joined together. Center was allowed to rest on the workbench surface while both wing panels were elevated outboard to accommodate the dihedral. Note reference line on the workbench surface that helped to maintain the straight line of the trailing edge. Plywood end cap ribs were added. Center joint is reinforced with a wrap of fiberglass tape (0.75oz is fine, about 3" wide at front tapering to about 2" at the rear). Outer wing panel construction will continue after the fuselage section.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W038.JPG Views:	1 Size:	101.2 KB ID:	29185
                  Ailerons are built over the pre-cut sheeting. Parts placement is laser etched onto the lower sheeting. Glue the ribs, LE and horn reinforcement plate in place and then sand the rib contour onto the LE.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W039.JPG Views:	1 Size:	100.7 KB ID:	29187
                  Speed Bond was applied and top sheeting and it was applied using the hot iron technique.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	W040.JPG Views:	1 Size:	103.8 KB ID:	29182
                  Last edited by JimD; 09-02-2018, 09:50 PM.
                  A Site for Soar Eyes

                  Comment


                  • MarkY
                    MarkY commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Jim, just a question, I have never used the Deluxe Materials Aliphatic resin is it any better than any other aliphatic glue? Thanks for putting this thread together, it's a lot of work, it's appreciated. Mark

                  • JimD
                    JimD commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks guys!

                    Mark, the Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin is in a class by its self...no comparison to the other aliphatics. All I can say is, get a bottle and try it. You will be a fanboy after the first use!

                  • MarkY
                    MarkY commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Will do. Mark

                • #10
                  Fuselage

                  First step is to make mirror image fuselage sides. Since these sides are straight along nearly the entire length of the bottom, They can be built next to each other along a straight reference line on your workbench.

                  Each side has a top and bottom 1/4" x 1/4" stringer that runs its length. Front half of stringer is balsawood and the rear half is basswood. Make a scarf joint to join these two parts together. Lay these on the plan and mark the location of the side panels, formers, and cross members.

                  T-pins and bricks make good holding devices.


                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F001.JPG Views:	1 Size:	73.1 KB ID:	29348

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F002.JPG Views:	1 Size:	67.7 KB ID:	29351

                  Copy marks to the opposite side.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F003.JPG Views:	1 Size:	66.9 KB ID:	29352

                  Support the stringers with 1/16" shims between the front and rear 1/16" plywood fuselage sides. Align the stringers on the laser etched marks on the plywood side panels and add weights to keep joints tight and side panels flat on the workbench.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F004.JPG Views:	1 Size:	89.5 KB ID:	29357

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F005.JPG Views:	1 Size:	95.2 KB ID:	29353

                  F1, F2, F3, F4, and F5 formers are used to set spacing of top and bottom stringers. They are NOT glued in place at this point.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F006.JPG Views:	1 Size:	94.8 KB ID:	29354

                  Thin CA was used to tack the stringers along this curved section.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F007.JPG Views:	1 Size:	92.0 KB ID:	29349

                  1/16" x 1/2" balsa cap strips are added under the top and bottom stringer between the front and back 1/16" plywood fuselage sides.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F008.JPG Views:	1 Size:	86.2 KB ID:	29356

                  The vertical 1/4" x 1/4" balsa truss parts were measured over the plan and pre-cut in matching sets for the left and right sides.

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F009.JPG Views:	1 Size:	86.5 KB ID:	29355

                  Click image for larger version  Name:	F010.JPG Views:	1 Size:	103.1 KB ID:	29350
                  Last edited by JimD; 11-15-2018, 01:32 AM.
                  A Site for Soar Eyes

                  Comment


                  • #11
                    Joining the fuselage sides can be done over the plan starting at the rear and working forward.

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F011.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	70.0 KB
ID:	29371

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F012.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	75.3 KB
ID:	29370

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F013.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	85.0 KB
ID:	29375

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F014.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	97.5 KB
ID:	29380

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F015.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	85.1 KB
ID:	29381

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F016.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	73.9 KB
ID:	29378

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F017.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	100.8 KB
ID:	29374

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F018.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	100.9 KB
ID:	29372

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F019.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	92.2 KB
ID:	29379

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F020.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	109.1 KB
ID:	29377

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F021.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	101.8 KB
ID:	29376

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	F022.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	103.4 KB
ID:	29373

                    A Site for Soar Eyes

                    Comment


                    • #12
                      While the fuselage is flat on the workbench, the rear top formers and spine are added and the stab mounting plate is added. Then fin is added and finally the stab is drilled and bolted to the stab mounting plate using a blind nut.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F023.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	99.4 KB
ID:	29383

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F024.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	101.2 KB
ID:	29390

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F025.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	89.3 KB
ID:	29386

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F026.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	83.3 KB
ID:	29388

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F027.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	95.9 KB
ID:	29392

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F028.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	67.2 KB
ID:	29389

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F029.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	104.7 KB
ID:	29384

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F030.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	68.7 KB
ID:	29385

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F031.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	88.0 KB
ID:	29391

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	F032.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	86.0 KB
ID:	29387



                      A Site for Soar Eyes

                      Comment


                      • #13
                        Having completed everything that can be done with the fuselage flat on the bench, it is time to move on to the installation of the front formers. F1 is taped in place and F4 is installed in a friction fit, neither is glued at this point.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F033.JPG Views:	1 Size:	89.7 KB ID:	29395


                        A fuselage stand was made using landscape bricks and scrap wood. Formers F2, F3, F5, and F6 are firction fit into place and masking tape used to hold fuselage sides against the formers. Again, bricks are used as fixing devices.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F034.JPG Views:	1 Size:	108.1 KB ID:	29399

                        Before any of the front formers are glued in place, the fuselage is aligned over a straight reference line drawn down the center of our workbench, blocked in place with weights, the fin is checked for plumb, and the fuselage checked for level.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F035.JPG Views:	1 Size:	102.7 KB ID:	29397

                        Looking down over F1, note that it is angled to the left. This is because the right fuselage side stringers are a bit less flexible than the left side. If you note this on your build, use a razor saw to make partial cuts in the stringers on the side that bends less.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F036.JPG Views:	1 Size:	86.1 KB ID:	29403

                        After making a series of cuts, F1 is now perpendicular to the centerline. After checking again to make sure that all of the formers were aligned with the fuselage inside laser etched lines, thin CA was used to tack the formers in place. A bead of Aliphatic Resin was then applied to all sides to make good strong joints.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F037.JPG Views:	1 Size:	86.6 KB ID:	29400

                        The battery box parts were added between F2 and F3 and the battery was checked for proper fit. This box needs to be slightly oversize to account for any "puffing" of the battery over time.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F038.JPG Views:	1 Size:	82.9 KB ID:	29401

                        Spektrum A6320 tow release servo was mounted in place.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F039.JPG Views:	1 Size:	84.0 KB ID:	29405

                        Spektrum A5060 rudder servo was mounted in place (note that there is a plywood doubler that is added to the bottom of the rudder mount).

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F040.JPG Views:	1 Size:	74.3 KB ID:	29398

                        Tow release supports were added between F1 and F2 and included wire loop glued in place.

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F041.JPG Views:	1 Size:	82.9 KB ID:	29402

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F042.JPG Views:	1 Size:	83.3 KB ID:	29396

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	F043.JPG Views:	1 Size:	92.7 KB ID:	29404
                        A Site for Soar Eyes

                        Comment


                        • #14
                          F11 and F12b parts are glued onto the F10 wing mounting plate.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F044.JPG Views:	1 Size:	98.1 KB ID:	29411

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F045.JPG Views:	1 Size:	83.7 KB ID:	29412

                          F15 is added to the underside of F10. This is support for the area where the blind nuts for the wing bolts will be added.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F046.JPG Views:	1 Size:	72.5 KB ID:	29413

                          Top stringers between F1, F2, and F3 are added and sanded flat along the top, then the pre-cut top 1/32" plywood sheeting is glued on.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F047.JPG Views:	1 Size:	73.5 KB ID:	29410

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F048.JPG Views:	1 Size:	82.5 KB ID:	29414

                          F13 is added to the front of F4.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F049.JPG Views:	1 Size:	81.2 KB ID:	29408

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F050.JPG Views:	1 Size:	92.7 KB ID:	29416

                          Pre-cut 1/32" plywood cockpit sheeting is added.

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F051.JPG Views:	1 Size:	88.8 KB ID:	29415

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F052.JPG Views:	1 Size:	61.0 KB ID:	29407

                          F4B doubler is added to the front of F4 (note that the wing center rib can be used to align these parts).

                          Click image for larger version  Name:	F053.JPG Views:	1 Size:	84.9 KB ID:	29409
                          A Site for Soar Eyes

                          Comment


                          • #15
                            Use a sanding bar to sand a flat on the fuselage between the top and side sheeting, then add the 1/32" precut plywood parts.

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F054.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	83.7 KB
ID:	29421

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F055.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	85.7 KB
ID:	29420

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F056.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	62.5 KB
ID:	29423

                            A word to the wise here...don't add the sheeting to the other side until the wing attachment bolt holes are drilled and the blind nuts installed. Also, it is helpful to install the receiver, ESC, and flight battery while there is easy access through the one side.

                            F16 is added to the bottom rear of the fuselage to form the tail skid mount.

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F057.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	77.2 KB
ID:	29422

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F058.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	83.0 KB
ID:	29419

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F059.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	92.3 KB
ID:	29424

                            Click image for larger version

Name:	F060.JPG
Views:	1
Size:	77.2 KB
ID:	29418

                            A Site for Soar Eyes

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X