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Pulldog Tow Plane

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  • Pulldog Tow Plane

    This all started when I began looking for a low budget tow plane for ¼ scale gliders that could be used on weekends when a few guys occasionally show up with their gliders and need a tow. There is a good selection of large tow planes available in kit and ARF form for 100cc and larger gasoline engines, but those offer much more performance than I needed. Not to mention the big gassers require a larger investment than my current modeling budget allows.

    Some folks have had success converting models like the Telemaster and Sig Rascal 110, but to me those models have some drawbacks - such as a high mounted wing which results in mediocre/poor ground handing, especially in a cross wind; a horizontal tail which is not removable for transport; and a structure that wasn’t originally designed to accommodate a tow line attach/release. And if electric powered, significant modifications have to be made to allow battery packs to be easily removed and replaced.

    Since I enjoy designing and building, I decided to construct my own tow plane to get what I wanted. A 3 View of the Pulldog is attached below, along with some photos. The Pulldog was designed from the outset for towing, and is also a good sport aerobatic model which can provide a lot of fun flying when not towing gliders. Some of the features are:
    • Low wing position for improved handing, especially on the ground
    • Removable wing panels with automatic servo connector hookup
    • Removable horizontal tail (only one bolt) to allow transport in small cars like my Honda Fit
    • Large fuselage hatch for easy battery and radio access
    • Taildragger landing gear for simplicity and low maintenance
    • Spoilers instead of flaps - results in easy, no-float landings
    • Electric power for low vibration and low noise
    • Simple structure and easy to build
    • Large enough wing for reasonably good visibility at tow release altitude
    • No plastic canopy, so no cracks to worry about
    • E-Flite Power 160 Outrunner motor; APC 20 X 8 prop; Castle Creations Phoenix Edge HV 80 ESC; 10S 5000 mah 25C LiPo (two 5S packs in series)
    • Fuselage mounted Digital Readout Voltage indicator to keep track of the battery’s remaining capacity

    Here are the specs:
    Span 100 in
    Area 1440 sq in
    Length 70 in
    Weight 14.6 lbs
    E-Flite 160 outrunner motor
    Castle Creations Phoenix Edge HV80 ESC
    APC 20 X 8 electric prop
    10S 5000 mah 25C LiPo battery (two 5S in series)

    To date I have tested the Pulldog by towing Andy Grose’s ¼ scale Schweizer 1-26 and Scott Smith’s ¼ scale Aviation Concepts (Gunny’s) Schweizer 2-33. The day we flew the heat index was 104 degrees, so the density altitude was fairly high. All releases were at 1000 – 1100 AGL. It took just under 1 minute to get the 1-26 to 1000’; the Pulldog pulls this glider easily. 4 tows can be made before the battery pack is depleted. I have 4 battery packs, so I can have one on charge while the others are cooling off if need be. Towing the big Gunny 2-33, which weighs 13.4 lbs, takes a lot more power, and runs the battery down a lot quicker. It took 1 minute and 20 seconds to get to 1000’. After 2 tows, I wasn’t sure if I had enough battery capacity left to make a 3rd tow. I think it would be worth experimenting with a different prop, like an 18 X 10, because the towing speed might have been just a little slow for the 2-33 using the 20 X 8 APC prop. The first tows with the 2-33 went OK, but later we had a couple of tows where the 2-33 got too far below the Pulldog and had to release, and I can’t say if it was due to pilot technique (tow pilot or glider pilot) or lack of speed. I plan to do more testing, but it’s just been too darned hot here to do any serious aerotowing, so that will have to wait a couple months.

    Bottom line, I believe the Pulldog is a very good tug for 10 lb and under gliders. It can also tow heavier gliders if both pilots are experienced and you can live with the shorter battery life. I can’t really say what the weight limit is yet, as more testing is needed, and also I think it depends upon the type of glider (e.g., glass slipper, vintage, etc.).

    I will try to make this build thread a bit light on narrative and use photos to show a lot of the information, since most folks who would build this are likely to be fairly experienced modelers who don’t need a step-by-step explanation. To encourage building I am posting the plans here for free. Also, Marcs Laser Shop http://www.scalesailplanekits.com/ will be offering short kits for the Pulldog. Contact Marc for details. That’s it for now. The next posting will start the build thread.

    Al Clark
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Al Clark; 07-22-2016, 07:24 PM.

  • #2
    Stabilizer Construction

    I started by building the stabilizer. This is built in the usual fashion. A 1/8” thick shim is required under the TE and aft ends of the ribs. Bevel the lower and upper edges of the TE to the proper angles before gluing. Make sure the block in the aft center section has vertical grain. Webbing is all vertical grain firm balsa 3/32 and 1/16 thick. Spar caps are spruce. After the false LE is glued, the frame can be unpinned and the false LE sanded down to the proper size and angles. Bottom of the D-tube is sheeted first, then pin the assembly back onto the building board, shim the TE, and glue the sheeting on top of the D-tube. After the glue dries unpin the assembly and add the TE sheeting and cap strips. Glue on the LE and sand to shape, then cut away the sheeting and LE between the S2 ribs, back to S1A. After everything is sanded the hinge slots can be cut with a #11 blade.

    I haven't figured out how to add captions to photos, so will put them here. 01 Ribs glued to lower spar cap and TE. Note 1/8 shim. 02 Parts S1A, S1B, and S1 added. 03 False LE and webs added. 04 Top spar cap and vertical grain balsa block added. 05 Lower D-tube has been sheeted and assembly is pinned down, ready for upper D-tube sheeting. 06 View of center section before top sheeting. 07 Top D-tube, TE, center section sheeting, and LE has been added and sanded. Cut-away between S2 ribs has been done. 08 Close-up of cutaway between ribs S2. 09 Wing tip edges will be rounded off after elevator is built. 10 Hinge slots for CA hinges cut with #11 blade.

    Elevator construction will be next.
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      Another outstanding design, Al. Subscribed

      Comment


      • #4
        Elevator Construction

        The elevator is a simple sheeted structure. Bevel the aft edge of the lower sheet, pin down, and add all the ribs. I use a straightedge at the front of the ribs to ensure proper alignment. Note the two ribs near the control horn location and the tip ribs are 1/8 thick. Bevel the 3/8 thick LE on top and bottom and install. Add the ½ square balsa block between the E1 ribs and sand flush with the rib tops. Cut the top sheet to size and glue in place. I recommend using epoxy on the TE as it provides some extra stiffness. Use a scrap balsa strip and lots of pins along the TE, and lots of pins along the LE. After the epoxy has cured unpin the elevator and clean up the edges with a sanding block. Mark a centerline on the LE, make the hinge slots, and bevel per the angles shown on the plan. Do a test fit to the stabilizer to make sure everything is OK. Round off the edges on the tips with the radius shown on the plan. Make the G-10 control horn and cut the slot (I used my scroll saw) to fit the control horn. Note the control horn slot is offset from the centerline! Glue the control horn into place.

        Use a drill press if you have one to make the .193 diameter hole for the 10-32 hold-down screw. Before drilling put a shim under the TE of the stab so it is level. Countersink the hole to match the nylon screw.

        Photo captions:
        1. ribs glued to lower sheet
        2. top sheeting glued and pinned
        3. end view
        4. lots of pins
        5. stab and elevator tip edges are rounded off
        6. top view showing countersunk hole for 10-32 hold-down screw (control horn slot not yet cut)

        Attached Files

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks Asher!

          Comment


          • #6
            Fin and Rudder
            This is just a simple frame-up job. The fin post is made from two pieces of 1/8 X 1/2 spruce with 1/4 X 1/2 balsa between. This gives extra strength, is still fairly light, and allows hinge slots to be made easily. After the rudder is put together it gets sanded so the TE is 1/8 thick. The plywood reinforcing pieces for the control horn (one on each side) are inset flush with the surface by sanding some material away. Just like the elevator, draw a centerline on the rudder LE, cut the hinge slots, and bevel per the plan. Use the plan and control horn to locate, mark, and drill the holes for the control horn. Sand the fin LE to shape and round off the fin and rudder tip edges.
            Photo captions:
            1. fin post end view
            2. rudder sanded for plywood reinforcing piece
            3. control horn reinforcing piece installed
            4. finished fin and rudder

            Attached Files
            Last edited by Al Clark; 07-19-2016, 11:27 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              Fuselage Sides

              I thought I’d add a photo first of the E-Flite Power 160 motor. It’s the largest electric motor I have used and runs 2440 watts which is 3.25 HP.

              Some preliminary work must be done before the fuselage sides can be built. Make some templates for the forward fuse sides by tracing or copying off the fuselage plan. Edge glue 5/16 balsa sheets together, sand, add templates with rubber cement, and cut to shape. Take care when cutting the holes so they are accurately located. Cut the scarf joint angles on the 5/16 square basswood longeron pieces, and cut the smaller basswood pieces that are located in the stab area. Also cut the 5/16 balsa gusset (one for each side) with the notch for F5. Pin the 5/16 balsa forward fuse side to the plan and add the basswood longerons and the basswood pieces that will support the stab. Glue in all the verticals and diagonals. Sand both sides flush.
              The Lite Plywood doublers are in two pieces so must be glued together with epoxy before they can be installed. When cured glue each doubler to the inside of the fuse sides making sure to align them carefully. Use whatever glue you like for this. I used some large T pin guides to make sure the doublers stayed aligned as I set then onto the fuse side using CA+ glue. Using CA+ is pretty sporty and epoxy is probably a much safer choice.
              Photo captions:

              1. E-Flite Power 160 motor
              2. 5/16 forward fuse sides
              3. Basswood longerons and pieces pre-cut, along with balsa gusset
              4. Basswood parts and balsa gusset glued at aft end of fuse side
              5. View of longeron joints at F3 position
              6. Fuse side ready for doubler installation
              7. Left side doubler installed
              8. Aft section of doubler
              9. Forward section of doubler

              Attached Files

              Comment


              • #8
                Fuselage Formers and Landing Gear Mount

                F1 is two pieces of 1/8 plywood laminated together. F2 and F3 are each laminated from one piece of 1/8 plywood and one piece of 1/16 plywood. The landing gear mount is laminated from two pieces of 1/8 plywood. Use whatever glue you like for the lamination. The tow release pin guide is installed at the top rear on F3. Blocks for servo mounting are installed onto the front bottom of F3. These blocks are .22 inches thick. Note the servo is installed inverted onto the front of F3. Use an aluminum arm (cut off to shorten the length) on the tow release servo and make up the linkage per the plan. Set the servo travel so the pin will protrude about 3/32” when engaged, and will drop below the fuse surface when retracted.
                Photo captions:
                1. Right edge view of F1
                2. Front view of F1
                3. F2
                4. Right edge view of F3
                5. Rear view of F3 with part of tow release pin guide installed at top
                6. Rear view of F3 with tow release pin guide installed
                7. Front view of F3 with servo mounting blocks installed. Note the grooves to clear the servo case webs.
                8. Rear view of F3 with servo and linkage installed
                9. Front view of F3 with servo and linkage installed
                10. Landing gear mount

                Attached Files

                Comment


                • #9
                  Great thread Al.
                  Thanks for bringing us along during the build. Cool plane.
                  Len Buffinton
                  Team Horizon Hobby

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There is always something to learn on a good build thread. Thanks Al.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks, guys!
                      Al

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Fuselage Assembly

                        Before assembling the fuse, locate and glue the lower half of the servo rails to the doublers, and also the ¼ X ½ battery plate rails. Note I did not install the battery floor rails at this point on the prototype because I wasn’t certain of their exact location to achieve the correct CG, but the plans show the correct position so they can be installed at the same time as the lower servo rails. This is much easier than trying to mount them after the fuse sides are assembled. Install F1, F2, F3, and the ¾ triangular at F1 to the right fuse side. Glue on the left side and add the three balsa and one basswood cross pieces. Glue in the landing gear mount and the ¾ triangular pieces. Glue all the lite plywood pieces in place on the bottom. The two forward lite plywood pieces are edge glued with a joint doubler added before installation to the fuse.

                        Photo Captions:
                        1. Lower portion of servo rail glued to right side doubler
                        2. F1 and triangular stock glued to right side doubler
                        3. F2 and F3 installed
                        4. Rear view of F3
                        5. Front view of F3
                        6. Left side glued to formers
                        7. Top view of fuse from F1 to F3
                        8. Landing gear mount and two balsa cross pieces installed
                        9. Upper two cross pieces installed (cross piece at F3 is basswood)
                        10. ¾ triangular stock added to landing gear mount
                        11. Two lite plywood pieces added aft of landing gear mount
                        12. Forward bottom lite plywood pieces joined with joint doubler
                        13. Forward bottom lite plywood pieces installed
                        14. Top view of all bottom lite plywood pieces installed

                        Attached Files

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                        • #13
                          And here are the last 4 photos that go with post #12 above:
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Fuselage Assembly Part 2

                            Turn the fuse upside down and pin it to the plan top view (I used a centerline on my building board, but it’s better to use the plan). Place some 5/16 balsa scrap under the fuse at F1 so it will stay level. Drill out the two holes in F4 to 3/32 diameter. Pull the sides together at the tail and glue in F5 and the tailwheel mounting plate. Use squares to ensure the sides remain vertical. Add all the cross pieces and diagonals. Add the 3/16 square spruce (or basswood) corner braces to the tailwheel mounting plate Glue in the Phenolic wing rod tube. Install F4.

                            Slide the aluminum wing tube into the fuselage, place the stab on the fuse, and check that they are parallel; sand the stab mounting area if required. Make sure the stab is centered and drill through the two holes in F4, into the stab LE, with a 3/32 drill bit. Epoxy two 3/32 music wire pins into the stab. Place the stab back onto the fuse, check to make sure it is perpendicular to fuse centerline, and drill through F5 with a .193 drill bit, using the stab bolt hole as a guide. Remove the stab and re-drill the hole in F5 larger to fit a 10-32 blind nut. Install and glue the blind nut to the bottom of F5. Fit and glue the 5/16 balsa pieces that will make the slot for the fin to mount into (use the fin as a guide to get a good fit on the slot).

                            Cut to length and glue in the rear wing rod tube which is made from 3/16 O.D. brass tubing. I forgot to take a photo of this tube.

                            Photo captions:
                            1. Tail pulled together with F5 and tailwheel mounting plate installed, and some of the cross pieces and diagonals installed
                            2. Another view
                            3. F4 with 3/32 holes glued in place
                            4. View of 3/16 square spruce braces glued to tailwheel mounting plate
                            5. F3B lite plywood shear panel installed flush with fuse top
                            6. Mounted stab with 3/32 music wire pins in front and 10-32 flat head nylon screw at rear
                            7. Bottom view of F5 showing blind nut and end of 10-32 screw
                            8. Top view of F5
                            9. Phenolic tube installed
                            10. 5/16 sheet balsa fill-ins with centered fin slot

                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by Al Clark; 07-22-2016, 07:14 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Al,
                              Thanks for the effort of doing this build thread. It is so well done and a new Pull Dog looks great

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