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1923 B3 'Charlotte II' in 1:3 Scale

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  • Dion Dunn
    replied
    As usual Michael, nice work. Those built up ribs have me thinking about Hol's wing again.

    Not much work on the Cherokee this weekend....more bike riding though. A little over 55 miles these weekend!

    Leave a comment:


  • stihac
    replied
    Originally posted by lenb View Post
    FYI,
    Michael, I just check the calendar and there's 98 days until the maiden.

    just sayin

    Tick-tock, tick-tock, tick-tock........

    Petr

    Leave a comment:


  • French1
    replied
    Mike,

    don't listen to Len,

    there is only 75 days until Wilburt Wright Aerotow, no pressure I know it will be ready in 60 days

    Stéphane

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  • lenb
    replied
    FYI,
    Michael, I just check the calendar and there's 98 days until the maiden.

    just sayin

    Leave a comment:


  • stihac
    replied

    I know, I've been bad My daughter's hockey season is almost over so I hope I'll get to spent more time in the shop soon.


    That's a lot of parts ..... just for ribs! You are a real builder my friend! It's always fun following your build. Thanks for the posts.

    Petr

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  • ARUP
    replied
    Petr, better get in the shop!
    Thanks, Stephane! The ribs are constructed from 'A' up to 'J'. Just gotta build 'K' through 'O' then the 'extended' ribs outboard of these which will be 14 more ribs! Since it isn't anything different looking to post... I haven't! Each of the ribs from 'A' to 'O' has 46 parts. That's 630 parts and doesn't include trial fitting and sanding, etc. It's best to not think about it.

    Leave a comment:


  • French1
    replied
    Mike,

    once again a great sailplane you are modeling.

    I love these sailplanes book, you can dream and flight high even in winter, this on is a good one!

    Keep on posting!

    Stéphane

    Leave a comment:


  • stihac
    replied
    Awesome work Michael! I love the look of build up ribs. I need to get back to the shop. I've not done much all winter.

    Petr

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  • ARUP
    replied
    Kevin, all frame members are basswood. The gussets are 1/64" ply. Balsa was used at the LE and TE sections to tie the upper and lower foil curved sections together. The ribs are very strong. They are probably a little heavier than 1/8" thick sheet balsa items which was considered. I built one test rib and compared it to balsa. The strength difference was significant as it relates to the rib ends where the TE cable gets mounted. That was the deciding factor for truss ribs here. The ribs really don't need much strength otherwise for they only create the foil shape. For real strength I'll use compression struts with drag and anti-drag bracing cables to trammel the wings per full scale practice just like what was done for the Franklin 'Eaglet' which has its own thread, here, too! I really enjoy building these structures. It is almost a shame to cover them up because I think they are very pretty! Thanks for your interest! P.S.- I haven't tried uploading pics as you graciously explained via PM. I still have problems logging onto the site (and others) from time to time because my local ISP is crummy.

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  • Melchizedek
    replied
    Michael, is the entirety of each rib (minus the gussets) made from basswood ? Cross members of the truss ?

    I will consider using a truss rib on my next build. Not only is it elegant, but looks far stronger an lighter than any other way.

    Kevin

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  • ARUP
    replied
    The first rib and all the jigging blocks were laid down. Micarta patterns (brown items in picture) were cut so that the nose TE filler pieces could be duplicated. The nose piece was made a little deeper than needed so that when all the ribs are on the spar they can get sanded 'flat' for the LE to be added. A jig will be made to get the nose end of the ribs sanded to approximately the proper angle for the LE. Construction starts by fitting the lower stick which is the bottom of the foil so as to cut the taper at the TE for the upper stick. The upper stick and the filler pieces are then glued, followed by the other sticks inside. The spar slot jig has the same width as the spar material to be used. It is pinned in place and has an indicator on its upper end to align with the spar slot centerlines on the plan. It takes about an hour to build each rib. Once the glue has dried the rib is taken off the plan, ends trimmed to proper length then both side are sanded. Gussets are cut and added to both sides of the ribs at the junctions of the sticks. Each rib is ~19" (~480mm) long. So far ribs 'A to 'E' are done. I've got quite a few more to go but thought you'd like to see some of 'em!

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    The pic showing the micarta patterns to cut the balsa nose piece and TE triangle piece was corrupted so isn't shown. I'll try to get another photo showing how I'm making these parts.

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  • ARUP
    replied
    Yessir, Dion! Lots of screening criteria are in place choosing a subject to build. 'Looks', rarity, features, novelty and historical aspects are just some. I don't expect much in the way of performance but maybe the 'Charlotte' will surprise just like the 'Vampyr'!

    Properly sized sticks were ripped from 1/4" x 4" x 36" Basswood boards in preparation to build the ribs. To make bending sticks to suit the upper Go365 scale foil the sticks were soaked in hot water then a covering iron at max temperature was used to 'steam iron' them over a jig. Do not use ammonia for this unless you want the wood to become brittle. My first jig was a cookie tin but has since been modified to what is shown. The Go365 foil on my plan was traced onto another sheet of paper. The spar slots are represented with centerlines. There are 15 ribs that gradually change in angle of attack from 8 to 0 degrees inboard to outboard. The spar slot centerlines all intersect at the bottom of the spar slot. This intersection is the 'pivot point' for a spar slot jig. The first and last spar slot centerlines were drawn to a convenient length. A nice convenient length was measured up and above the rib pattern from the intersection point so that a distance between the two centerlines was easily divisible by 14. Mine was 14mm so that each spar slot centerline is 1mm apart at this length. Next, a centerline was drawn from the 'pivot point' to the 1mm spaced markings. I labeled them 'A' to 'O'. It takes much longer to type this than do it! You can see the spar slot jig in action on the plan! It has relief cuts on the under surface to clear rib structure.

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  • Dion Dunn
    replied
    You always pick the easiest planes to model.....

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  • ARUP
    replied
    Hiya Petr! What have ya got on the building boards? Dion- I started a Peanut Fokker D-VIII 'Flying Razor'. I talked with my buddy so you are now in the unofficial MWMW club. (Mt. Washington Mole Whackers). We are going to see what it takes to become an 'official' Flying Aces squadron now that the requisite three (?) members are on the role.

    The flying wing 'Charlotte' has some interesting construction hurdles to overcome. One is the 'twist' that the wing has along its length. It is approximately 8 degrees from the root end to a rib station (#15 if the root end is #1) just before the extended portion of the wing starts. The ribs are built up full scale fashion so just putting the ribs on the two spars and forcing a twist isn't possible or structurally sound. The spars will be built up so their ability to be twisted will be limited. There is just one template to make the 15 identical length ribs each panel. An 'adjustable spar slot jig' is set onto the rib template so that the slot to receive the spar can be progressively angled. Two identical ribs are built then the 'adjustable spar slot jig' is set for the next two ribs. It will all make more sense when a few more ribs have been made so the differences can be seen. I am using the scale airfoil which is the Gottingen 365.

    Another construction consideration is the wire or cable TE on the full scale. It is easiest to just cut wood and scallop it to get the effect but doesn't look proper when the covering is translucent as on the 'Charlotte'. This model will be done to resemble the full scale item. A segment of aluminum tubing at the TE will allow cable to pass along the TE.

    Then there are even more considerations! Covering will commence from the under surface LE to the TE then around and across the upper surface to the LE again. The constant chord portion of the wing can get done in one piece. The extended portion of the wing can get done in another piece of fabric folded across the cable TE on the bias of the weave and attached in a similar fashion. I think I have a solution to sealing the weave of the fabric without 'sticking' the upper surface to the lower surface at the TE. They will be in close proximity so this is definitely going to be difficult to tackle. The wings are going to have an 'auto-connect' elevator and aileron feature so that all RC equipment will be in the fuselage. Stay tuned!

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  • stihac
    replied
    so cool! looking forward to the build

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