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Jeremy, To me it looks like the trim is bright white, the fabric has a clear coat with some sheen and the lettering is baby blue.
Dean, please feel free to chime in here.
Dean, please feel free to chime in here.
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It definitely looks bright white in the outdoor pictures!
Jeremy and Ben
SCC AAA TTComment
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It is indeed a bright white. The light blue has a slight grey look to it. Delfleet Single Stage Polyurethane Enamel for booth the white and blue. Stitts fabric has one coat untinted Polybrush brushed on with the part overhead. This was done so you could brush out any drips or sags. So imagine the wings on saw horses and brushing the first coat while on a creeper. The fuselage was suspended from the ceiling and rotated so each facet was doped when it was level with the floor. This was somewhat scary. The one coat of Polybrush sealed the fabric enough that it was OK to spray clear Polytone (3 coats).
My goal was to have the look of a stick model covered in tissue or silkspan like the old days.
Regards DeanComment
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I defy anyone to not like a build thread where a box of shotgun shells is used to hold the parts in place while the glue dries!
Great job!Comment
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Dean, thanks for the input. You absolutely got the effect you were looking for. I'm concerned about prepping the wood to get the same effect. I'm sanding the formers to remove the laser charred edges and will be experimenting with various finishes to get the airframe the right color before covering. Should be interesting to say the least.
The natural Solartex will be very revealing of the framework so I will try to stain the wood to look like this before covering.
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My goal was to have the look of a stick model covered in tissue or silkspan like the old days.
Regards Dean
You definitely got the effect you wanted Dean.
Jeremy and Ben
SCC AAA TTComment
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Update:
I've been bouncing around a little. I got to a point where I was waiting on some pieces to cook for steam bending so I started on the side stringers. I quickly realized that the tail fin and it's sheeting needed to be done for the stringers to terminate into. So I framed up the tail fin and got it glued in.
I removed more of the wing LE until flush with the inside of the longerons. Then traced the profile to make a pattern.
Then cut the 1/4" balsa filler pieces.
Glued the filler pieces in and faced them with 1/32" ply.
I wanted to use spruce for the next pieces to add strength and to help maintain the curvature of the fuselage sides. They had to be steamed and then held to shape overnight.
Continued on next post due to the 4 photo limit.Comment
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Update continued due to the 4 photo rule.
While waiting for the spruce pieces to dry I framed up the tail fin and glued it in. The F1 rib did not fit. It was too small to be used so I cut my own as per the plans.
Here are the spruce pieces after being tapered and glued in. The fuselage is now ready for the canopy.
That's it for now. Next will be the side stringers and the nose sheeting.
Last edited by ingrahal; 06-07-2015, 07:24 AM.Comment
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Update:
The stringers are done and I have started on the tow release.
(Note added 7/25/2015: I probably should have done the tail surfaces first, including the internal workings then move to stringers and the nose.)
I ended the stringers at former 1 instead of going all the way forward. Since the nose of N72DG is sheeted I decided to use block balsa to fill those areas.
Side stringers are done.
Started on the tow release.
Attached FilesLast edited by ingrahal; 07-26-2015, 03:56 AM.Comment
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Stringers can be tough. Many times I use a substantial music wire laid onto fuse then glide a piece of sandpaper down the wire to help set the stringers' locations.Comment
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I'd like to share some comments by Dave Smith made via email. I'm sure glad he's keeping an eye on me.
"Art,
Without the stringers at the nose, (which I agree you need to remove), it just looks a little light from a strength perspective, especially when you give a good jerk on the towline when towing. I know you will have your balsa block to shape out the nose. Are you planning on glassing it? Pretty sure that would add the insurance strength that you may never need.
DS"
My reply:
Dave, thanks for keeping an eye on me, I appreciate your input. My thinking was that instead of just stringers I will now have solid balsa tying everything together. Which I intend to epoxy in. The cabin floor, former A and former D will all be epoxied together. Granted, once shaped the solid balsa will be much less substantial than it is now. I tell you what, let’s see how it looks once the balsa is shaped and I’ll glass it in if you think it needs it.
Dave's reply:
Art, it's just that "D" by itself is a little flimsy when you apply force in the direction of the tow line. Anything you can do to beef it up would be good insurance, and it's only nose weight anyway.
Given that the full size nose is glassed (over pink foam), I'd consider glass on the outside which will tie it all together.
Your call....you'll know how it feels once you get the blocks in place.
DS
My reply:
Gotcha. I see what you mean concerning D. The tie in at the floor is not well reinforced.
Dave's reply:
Right, the stringers actually provide some tie-in to the rest of the fuselage. Without them, a bit of additional reinforcement might be advised. On the model, the "yank" is on "D". In the full size, the Tost hook is below floor level and tied to the keel.
DS
Update:
Got the tow release installed and the balsa blocks epoxied in.
That's it for now, time to do some whittling.Last edited by ingrahal; 06-11-2015, 04:59 PM.Comment
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Question for Dave Smith:
What was the recommended amount of nose weight to be added to the cabin floor for balance?
Update:
Ok a lot of whittling and sanding and the nose is pretty much done. I made a mistake, can anyone catch it?
From this...
to this...
to this
You can see the mistake in this photo.
I will add filler and final sand the nose, install the tow release servo mount and then move on to the horizontal stabilizer mount.Comment
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