Mibo 1:3 DG-1000 V3 with Torcman FES - photo build log

[Steve P]

This thread is more for cataloging the plane as a resource for the site. The Mibo DG-1000 is currently unavailable, but who knows what the future may hold? As some know, I had the opportunity to test an earlier prototype a few years ago. That was fun and flew beautifully while it unfortunately indicated that the interlocking spar tongues as the joiner system weren't fully up to the task.

So, here we have a V3 with a MASSIVE rectangular carbon joiner. This thread details putting the bits together...

First up is that wing joiner -- 32 inches in length, nearly 2 inches wide and weighs in at a mighty 45.25 ounces






An easy place to start on a build is to toss in some servos. The tip panels got Spektrum 5060's in frames...

[Steve P]

Venturing inside the wings, it's all about high torque, metal gear, HV JR8931s. These went into frames from STV Tech - I like to place the frames with the servo installed, hence the blue tape on the back of the servo so that it releases from the splooge (another tech term) of epoxy.

The model comes with internal linkages that to me were not sufficient. Instead, I installed heavy duty G10 horns deeply into each surface with Hysol. A single for ailerons and a dual set-up with a ball joint between for the flaps.

Plain white wing bottom surfaces were dressed up with blue vinyl.

[Steve P]

As visible on the wing photo above, the wiring was done with PowerBox Premium Maxi Wire and Hansen Hobby multi-connectors. Such great stuff!



Inside the fuselage, there was no accommodation for a rudder servo. I chose to mount it to the front of the retract bulkhead with a different format STV Tech Frame so that the servo can be accessed/removed for service. Realizing I didn't have enough cable for a pull-pull, I'm trying an experiment. I did have a roll of 50lb test Spider Wire fishing line. This stuff is insanely tough so it gets first crack at serving the purpose.

[Steve P]

When the kit arrived, the first thing I did was install heavy fiberglass mounts for seat pans and then paint out the fuselage interior. It is gray primer, gray granite paint and multiple coats of dead flat clear.



The retract is actually a used Let unit purchased online. A fender was fashioned with PETG plastic.

[Steve P]

Grabbing an hour here or there to work on this, sometimes I felt like serious work, other times more of an art project. This is not a logical sequence to be sure! A few more dress-up shots adding color using Oracal vinyl and applying graphics from Callie...

How an aileron looks when it's all buttoned up. Went will more robust than 4-40 metric rod and clevis. The servo covers used are actually the Radim Horky ones for his 6.6 meter Arcus replacing the simple flat covers intended for the so-so internal linkages I've bypassed.



Tips got a splash of red color. Red-Blue-White fits with the Slovenian theme I'm doing. Bottoms have a red check pattern similar to the main panel blue bottoms.



The horizontal stab felt left out of the party

[Steve P]

A few more shots before moving back inside the fuselage.

The flaps are exceptionally long and only have one servo. I decided to try and make everything as stout as possible by using a H9 metal servo arm and doubling the control surface horns, again buried deep in the surface with Hysol. Once all is set on surface travels, the rod will get a thick wall carbon tube cover installed with epoxy physically uniting the two ball joints.




Inside the tail another HV servo and typical elevator setup. The horizontal stab size is very generous. It's a biggin!

[Steve P]

I love wiring -- I know, I'm a sicko.

PowerBox Pioneer + two 26D receivers + two 2500 LiPo packs + PBR Vario + STV Tech mounts



Absolutely LOVE the Pioneer. Great for these HV setups



Ooh. That's niiiicccceee....

[Steve P]

Final details before a 80 DAY WAIT for a Torcman order that sat at Frankfurt's airport. DHL is a mess as a result of the pandemic. Had I known, overnight service would have been a consideration. In any case, this whole project is in no way shape or form a rush job.

I may love wiring, but for some reason I hate installing spoiler caps. Gotta get them right and on strong like bull. It went amazingly well with minimal swearing.



Final detail at this stage is to make-up a tow release. It needs to sit on the fuselage bottom exactly beneath the front seat pan control binacle. Best to wait for the FES install so there is nothing in the way. So, the parts were made-up and put aside.



The waiting is the hardest part

[Steve P]

So. While DHL tracking continues to say the package is sitting in Germany, it decided to appear in my mailbox anyway on Good Friday. On to FES joy and excitement. %$#@! New learnings to be sure.

Fun toys!



Measuring up required a call to the FES Helpline (French1) wherein we decided all the math in the world doesn't beat TLAR.

And darn good that was the approach. The nose of a DG1000 droops down when the wings are flight level. To install the motor in that manner -- in line with the level wings or slightly up -- would have had an extreme hard upward angle on the motor shaft and the bottom of the circular motor mount would not have fit in the fuselage. As is, the bottom needed to be 80% ground off and the motor can is close to the fuselage bottom at the front. We'll see if some sort of elevator comp to power might be in the cards.

Oh well, did the leveling and alignment boogie for future knowledge. It did help give a baseline before the cheat.



A small piece to fit on top of the bearing to fill a gap was fashioned out of G10



Small-piece-fitter-inner device was employed



About to bear installing the bearing



Waiting for the epoxy to cure needed to be sure all stayed in alignment

[Steve P]

And where things stand as of the past weekend. Bearing installed, motor mount outer ring installed so that the shaft and propeller mount (the tube the removeable prop device slides into) align smoothly with the bearing.

This takes time and multiple tweaks and checking in and out of the fuselage. The motor must be installed in the mount and then in the ring to get everything aligned. There is no eyeballing here. Patience.

The substantial gap at the top of the mount ring was closed with another G10 section bolted to the front of the ring. Once that was all installed and epoxied in place, two small wedges of ply that overlapped a portion of the G10 closed the remaining small gaps to the left and right. A final dose of epoxy further unified everything. Not the greatest shot given the angle, but you get the idea...

That's it until another future weekend

[Steve P]

Lost a few photos along the way. None of these are consequential, but FWIW... Used a contour gauge on the outside top of the nose to quickly make-up the G10 extension to the motor mount ring, G10 was reasonably thick (still far less that the stout mounting ring), and finally a missing shot of the initial bearing alignment using a long rod and the bearing fitting provided by Torcman.

[Steve P]

Finally back in the workshop to finish the motor (NT530-35/14 Pol/14W) install and tow release.

Trimming the motor shaft was a non event using the Dremel EZLock thin metal blade. Took 5 minutes.



White RFM 18x11 propeller blends in well



Tow release plan worked out.



All the “stuff” finally in place. 10s 5000mAh 50C motor motivators.

[Steve P]

All buttoned up...



Hauling tourists helps pay the bills, but didn’t we say no food or drinks!!!

[Swiss1]

I hope he has a bottle opener in there somewhere!

[Steve P]

Maiden day! Flew fantastic.

Grabbed lift easily, nimble and does a super fast pass with very little noise. Lands beautifully. The FES system works well, gentle climb and easy on the batteries so I can clearly go with more prop. Need to do some research to see where I can take the 10S setup.

[Steve P]

Thanks to Jeff Duhaime for these shots from the New England Aerotow...

Up Up!