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How to tighten bolts in the Retract frame of a Baudis Diana 2

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  • How to tighten bolts in the Retract frame of a Baudis Diana 2

    This is my first scale sailplane. I installed the retract servo and adjusted the travel. Now I need to know the correct procedure for tightening the bolts in the retract frame.
    Diana 2 retract frame.pdf
    Do I first screw the hex bolts into the Rubber grommet until the hex bolt is bottomed out into the rubber grommet, then tighten the nut to the frame below the head of the hex nut, then finally tighten the nuts at the bottom of the frame to secure the rubber grommets ?

    I tried tightening the bolts and nuts but when the hex bolts bottom out in the rubber grommets, there is a small gap between the bottom of the head of the hex bolt and the frame. Is this OK?

    Thanks in advance !
    Steve G

  • #2
    There is nothing to adjust...

    The off-the-shelf rubber vibration isolators that are being used in this application as shock dampners have nuts (top) and bolts (bottom) that have had rubber molded around them (there's a gap between them). The upper HEX bolt is simply screwed into the rubber isolator (bottoms out) with a nut / washer on the underside to prevent turning. The bottom bolts secure them to the fuselage bulkhead.

    The rubber stretches upwards / sideways as landing loads push the wheel up into the fuse (you should be able to pull up slightly on the gear frame to observe this). If you hit hard enough - they will delaminate / tear - hopefully before something else lets go...

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    • #3
      Parallax,
      Thanks for your help !

      Comment


      • #4
        Hi Hoot,
        Sorry for not seeing this sooner. As stated above, there really is no adjustment to the mounts other than tightening the retract to the nut. Those mounts are commonly known as Vibration Isolators, and example is here https://www.grainger.com/product/2NP...!g!71841870799!

        They will soften the impact on landing and help reduce the shock if rolling on rough terrain. Over time they soften and you can replace them if needed.
        Beautiful plane, Ive seen one fly and its quite impressive.

        LEN
        Len Buffinton
        Team Horizon Hobby

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        • #5
          Len,
          Thanks for your help! If the Apache Pass Texas scale sailplane event is a go for Spring 2020, I hope to fly the plane there.

          Comment


          • #6
            What do you mean IF? Get it going!!!
            Len Buffinton
            Team Horizon Hobby

            Comment


            • #7
              I understand that the right people are working on it. I believe the organizers from last year made a positive impression on the people who control the site.

              Comment


              • #8
                Hoot,
                Does the bolt pass all the way though the rubber or are there individual studs encapsulated at each end of the rubber dampener? I was thinking about it and wondered if they tighten the bolt squeezing the rubber damper vs the conventional vibration isolator shown. Ive seen it done both ways.

                I talked to Bryan yesterday, I think he is getting motivated to fly soon!!
                Len Buffinton
                Team Horizon Hobby

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                • #9
                  Len,
                  The rubber damper has a bolt encapsulated on bottom and the top of the damper is threaded so the hex bolt can be threaded into the top of the damper. My question is when the nuts are tightened against the retract frame, there is about a sixteenth of an inch, (maybe slightly more) between the frame and the bottom of the hex bolt heads. Should I place washers between the frame and the hex bolt heads to close the gap? I'm trying to upload a clear photo but but the site doesn't allow the file extension from my iPhone.
                  Thanks for your help !

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                  • #10
                    Here is a photo showing the gap between the hex bolt heads and the retract frame.
                    Attached Files

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                    • #11
                      I see,
                      I would want those heads tight against the carbon and I would assume you will want a washer there to spread the load out. Otherwise, the retract is literally hanging on a few threads in the carbon.
                      Seems like the bolt should pass through the carbon freely and sandwich between the added washers and the nut on the other side ( I would put a washer there too so the nut does not scar the carbon.
                      If anyone else had any additional thoughts, please feel free to contradict.

                      Maybe we can get Russ Bennet to snap a picture of his setup.
                      Len Buffinton
                      Team Horizon Hobby

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                      • #12
                        Len,
                        both bolts pass through the carbon frame freely. I will put some washers to take up the slack.
                        I appreciate your help !

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Click image for larger version

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                          Please reread post #2. If it is an absolute requirement; I can post a disassembled Baudis SZD-56-2 retract assembly

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                          • #14
                            Parallax
                            no need to post a photo but thanks for the offer !

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Hoot View Post
                              Parallax
                              no need to post a photo but thanks for the offer !
                              Good luck; the 56 is an excellent airframe.

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