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H9 ASH 31 build, notes and questions
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That's a great idea! I keep forgetting about those little jewels. If you find they fit then that's what I'll do.
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So what are people doing to make the removal of the horizontal stab easier. The manual shows removal via the servo arm that is not a good solution in my opinion.
Thinking of using the Sulivan releasable ball links.
Cheers
Mark
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They still flop around unless you fix the the harness to something. I will use the mesh on the wires from the were they come out of the conduit to the receiver.
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Originally posted by Mark Stone View PostFinished the outer wing panels and on to the inners.
One thing that always causes me concerns is when you hear the wires in a wing flapping around in a wing especially when they are 2m long.1 Photo
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Originally posted by mtnbiker63 View PostSo my rudder servo problem resolved. New servo and triple checked that there was no drag on the pushrod or clevis.
New issue: LANDING GEAR - quick note was working great and I didn't change anything. Now will not retract. Moves a tiny bit then get the gear grinding noise. Can't see it hanging up anywhere. Will retract when given a little push up. At the end of the retract, a two second gear grinding noise continues. I've set the travel in that direct to the shortest possible number and still have the gear retract.
Whole retract system out of the fuselage and will need to get replaced. Anyone else having issues?
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Same thing for me exactly. I am going to change mine over to be servo actuated
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So my rudder servo problem resolved. New servo and triple checked that there was no drag on the pushrod or clevis.
New issue: LANDING GEAR - quick note was working great and I didn't change anything. Now will not retract. Moves a tiny bit then get the gear grinding noise. Can't see it hanging up anywhere. Will retract when given a little push up. At the end of the retract, a two second gear grinding noise continues. I've set the travel in that direct to the shortest possible number and still have the gear retract.
Whole retract system out of the fuselage and will need to get replaced. Anyone else having issues?
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sounds like the servo has a bad spot on the motor/pot
Try using sub trim to move the centering point of the servo and see if it works.
I would certainly send the servo in for repair
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Finished the outer wing panels and on to the inners.
One thing that always causes me concerns is when you hear the wires in a wing flapping around in a wing especially when they are 2m long.
I started gluing my wires in, with blobs of shoe goo, but quickly realised that was a bad thing if you ever needed to do repairs.
So for my last few planes I’ve started using straws glued in with the wires up the middle. Now using 12mm, ½â€, paper bubble tea straws.
The dolphins don’t choke on the paper straws if they end up in the ocean or so I’m told.
Took the spoilers out, 3 small screws, allowed me to easily insert the straws further up the wing and feed the wing back through.1 Photo
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Quick heads up..
There is no need to use an attachment on the rear bolt to retain the inner wing panels. For some reason. The factory decided to change the set up between final production samples and first batch production. They replaced the rear alignment pin with the same threaded metal as the front.
None of the three sample aircraft that we have flown during testing have a nut on the rear. Only the front. In fact. The very first one flew its first 100 or so flights with no bolt and only taped on panels.
Regards Ali
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Originally posted by mtnbiker63 View PostHere is my solution for the trailing edge wing bolts. I need to shorten the bolt to around 35mm and find a bolt with a flat head so I can hand tighten them. But I was able to attach this one and spin it using both hands.
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I'm having trouble with the rudder servo. When I power up the receiver, all the control surfaces move except the rudder. If I grab it, I can't move it by hand. So the servo is receiving power. If I force it a bit, then I'll get full rudder control and the servo is working great.
Any idea to what is going on?
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I went after the aileron install and want to pass along a few things with my install.
The first thing I had to do was drill out the hole in the brass aileron horn so that the supplied clevis would fit.
I used a #51 drill (.067") which made for a snug fit.
The next thing was to cut down the control rod. I cut mine to 30mm which is a little long but will work.
After ruining one servo arm I cut another to the 2nd hole from center which is about 14mm. This length gives clearance with the servo cover. I did not use the rubber servo mounts.
With the recommended maximum control surface throw for the aileron the second hole also gives clearance with the wing in max. UP aileron.
Think I'm happy with this install so far.4 Photos
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