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Bidule 111 v2.0

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  • #76
    Why do we always put off drilling the props until the last minute...well, only one way to fix that, do it now!

    Step #1 attach drill guide to prop and align so holes will be oriented in your preferred manner.



    Step #2 don't use DA-150 pattern when drilling DA-100 prop...okay, got that done...twice...and no mistakes!



    Now on to a DA-150 prop...shop vacuum is held near drill bit to collect the carbon fiber shavings.

    A Site for Soar Eyes

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    • #77
      Originally posted by JimD View Post
      Why do we always put off drilling the props until the last minute..
      The simple answer is we are Sailplane pilots at heart , therefore we don't have props to deal with, so we forget.
      Len Buffinton
      Team Horizon Hobby

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      • JimD
        JimD commented
        Editing a comment
        As my friend Les used to say: "it's your lie so you can tell it anyway you want!"

    • #78
      Jim,

      thank you for sharing your hard work, not to exclude the rolodex entries for parts sources. Great looking plane, too.

      Do you plan to build baffles around the engine?

      Phil

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      • JimD
        JimD commented
        Editing a comment
        1) Considering the size and location for air entry vs. exit, there should be plenty of air movement through the cowing and over the cylinder fins.

        2) Considering how much the cylinder heads stick out on each side of the cowling, there should be plenty of air movement over those cylinder fins.

        3) We did not baffle the cowling on our Bidule 170, and we tested the engine cooling under extreme heat at last summer's GAAT event, and had no issues!

        So the answer is, not at this time. If cooling seems to be an issue, then certainly will consider baffles.

    • #79
      BTW, the prop drill guide is available from PSP Manufacturing, http://www.pspmfg.com/

      This drill guide is perfect for my purposes because it has the bolt pattern for the DA-100/120 and the DA-150. (DLE-111/120 bolt pattern is the same as the DA-100/120)

      PSP Mfg also makes the throttle and choke arms that we used on this model.
      A Site for Soar Eyes

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      • #80
        Hi Jim
        Followed this to build my new Bidule 111, thanks for the all the great ideas. I have one problem, dropped my canopy off on the floor and it cracked. just finishing up the model and this had to happened. I have emailed Icare about a replacement but thought I would try here also to find one. Anyone make a mold for one , maybe make one from a better material that would be a little more flexible for guys like me.
        Don

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        • JimD
          JimD commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks Don, glad the build thread helped...hearing this makes taking the time to post worth while.

          SteveP may have one...I made the mistake of mounting the canopy on my first Bidule 170 using small screws. Mid-way through the season stress cracks appeared at every screw hole! Anyway, I got a new canopy from ICare and glued it on and have not had any problems since.

      • #81
        Good Evening Jim, Flew the model yesterday for the first time. I had 11 OZ in the nose for balance. Seeing you had added weight in the tall i pushed everything as far aft as possible, So after flying three flights I was removing it all cause it was way to nose heavy. Now I have no added nose weight. The model fly as you know very easy. Did a couple of light tows and the DA 120 proves to be plenty of power, i went with the 3 blade 16/10 as you suggested. Great results. the motor vibrates a lot. I need to double check the balance of the spinner and prop and tuning the motor in some should help it out. Thanks again for all the work putting the build here for all of us to reference. Flying season is upon us, time to start towing

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        • #82

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          • #83
            Ya that 16/10 prop really spins up,lol 26/10 is a much better choice

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            • #84
              Congratulations on the completed model...here is our best wishes for many years of service!
              A Site for Soar Eyes

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              • #85
                Hi Jim! Any chance you could list your servo choices for each surface on the 111?

                Thanks, --Rob

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                • #86
                  Hi Rob,

                  The Bidule 111 has twelve servos installed:

                  2 - aileron
                  2 - flaps
                  2 - elevators
                  2 - rudders
                  1 - throttle
                  1 - choke
                  1 - tow release
                  1 - nose gear steering

                  All servos are Hitec HS-5645MG except for the nose gear steering servo which is a Hitec HS-7955TG.

                  Torque ratings at 6.0 volts are 164 oz-in for the HS-5645MG and 333 oz-in for the HS-7955TG.
                  A Site for Soar Eyes

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                  • #87
                    Thanks Jim. I thought I read that you had received metal arms with the 5645’s or was that the 7955? Was that a special deal or standar as I don’t see anywhere to confirm the Servo comes with metal arms.

                    -Rob

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                    • #88
                      Hi Rob, yes they do come standard with a metal arm plus an assortment of heavy duty plastic arms. I used some of each on the Bidule 111. The metal arms have threaded holes (4-40 threads) for use with 4-40 DuBro Ball Links or equivalent. The plastic arms are very robust and I have used them for some of the controls on my Bidule 170 with no problems (125+ hours of operation). The holes in the plastic arms are sized for the typical DuBro metal clevis or equivalent. I have drilled out the holes in the plastic arms for use with 4-40 Ball Links with no problem. Hope this helps!
                      A Site for Soar Eyes

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                      • #89
                        Thanks Jim - - - Really appreciate your thread and efforts here!

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                        • #90
                          Spektrum servos
                          Len Buffinton
                          Team Horizon Hobby

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