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  • Good Old Paint


    I am repairing a model and needed to repaint most of the top of a wing tip panel. The model is all molded in red, on the upper surface and none of the cans of spray paint I have found either don't match the color or are formulated to give you a nice glossy “wet look” because they dry faster than I can apply it to the area I am trying to paint. Krylon has a color that is near what I need but dries too fast to get a gloss coat. I used to use Krylon a lot, but they keep changing their formula and it does not work as well as it used to. I found a small can of Testors plastic model spray that is very close to the color I wanted, but has the same issue of drying too fast.

    On my shelf, I have 30-40 cans of spray paint, some dating back to the 1980’s LOL I noticed I had a can in the back with a red cap and decided to see if it would stii spray and if it did, see how close it was to the color I wanted. The can was “Coverite Black Baron Epoxy”….I don’t think that brand has been made in years. The can was 1/3 full and when I shot out a test, it matched the color I needed perfectlyI I was a little afraid to use it though, as I was worried I would get half way through painting the wing and have the can start spitting, like old cans tend to do, or just have it run out. So I decided to try the can of Testors plastic model paint first.

    I carefully masked the wing and used almost the whole can of Testors paint to cover the wing panel. The results were a less than spectacular gloss coat. I had a can of clear gloss lacquer that I have used before and tried to topcoat the Testors red with it, the results were okay till the can decided to drop a huge drop of clear in the middle of the wing, that I foolishly tired to remove only to ruin the red paint underneath. Frustrated…I started over, first I stripped the red paint and clear lacquer off the wing….what a mess that was I used an “orange” stripper which worked perfectly, followed up with acetone to further clean the surface. This removed the paint I had applied and most of the paint that had been on the wing originally. The first go around I only primed where I had made my repair, so this time I primed the whole area to be painted. I used Krylon sandable primer. Krylon primer dries quickly and afterwards I wet sanded with 600 grit, then crossed my fingers and tried the Black Baron Epoxy Red.


    Except for small parts that I can shoot color on in a small spray booth in my basement, pieces that large I take outside. I had to wait till 11pm last night, for the winds, heat and humidity to go away before I shot the color on. The color went on beautifully and I still have some left in the can! The only draw back is that this paint takes 24 hours to dry, so you must keep it someplace dust free to cure.

    After I shot the wing I noticed another can of red paint that I had…another oldie…Pactra Formula U, I know it’s over 20 years old. I did not notice it at first, because Pactra put black caps on all their cans. I shot a test with it too and it matched the color I wanted just as well as the Black Baron paint. It dries faster though, like 6 hours or so…but it does not dry so fast that you can’t get a nice wet look. I almost wish I had found it before I used the Black Baron Epoxy paint.

    I remember using those paints, the Black Baron Epoxy and the Formula U, on several models years ago, and they looked great for years. The only currently produced paint that consistently gives me great results is good old Rustoleum! It takes forever to dry, but what a nice finish. However, unlike the Black Baron and Formula U paints, the colors are not formulated to match the colors that our iron on films come in. I just wish someone made slow drying spray paints to match those films!

    Well..as my Uncle Yogi said….”The future ain't what it used to be”! I thought he was talking about baseball and didn’t realize he was talking about cans of spray paint LOL
    Last edited by Xroadie; 05-30-2015, 07:03 AM.

  • #2
    They do,



    But you have to have a little compressor to shoot it.
    Len Buffinton
    Team Horizon Hobby

    Comment


    • Xroadie
      Xroadie commented
      Editing a comment
      Yep......I know about that, but it doesn't come in a spray can

  • #3
    Well, with it being red, it must be a TD plane ;-) Good story, BTW
    A compressor and detail gun are a necessity for "modelers" these days since the matching spray paints are no longer offered by the shrink film suppliers. Most all of the hobby distributors have abandoned us builders, for acknowledged reasons. There are so few of us left. Still, we all need the quick shot from a "spray bomb" but as you say they don't do too well on large areas.
    Another option is to go to your local car paint supplier such as PPG, Sherwin Williams, etc. and have them match you color and fill a spray can with acrylic enamel. It will perform equally to the old paints, having a slower dry rate and laying down smoothly. The typical cost for this is about $12 but you usually get more than in a typical can. Well worth it if you want a can of Ultracote Red sitting on your shelf.

    Comment


    • #4
      Pete, you need to check the Tamiya line of paints, we sell them in the store and there are many shades of Red in the TS gloss line which are lacquer based.
      Tamiya AS are military mainly semi gloss and matt, and PS are polycarbonate to be used on the inside of Lexan. All there paint goes on very smooth without orange peel, much better quality than Testors.
      To remove any spray can paint we use Easy Off oven cleaner, depending on what type of sub structure, it's quick and efficient.

      Jeremy and Ben
      SCC AAA TT

      Comment


      • #5
        +1 to Asher's comment. I have had great luck bringing a colored part to a PPG supplier, having them scan the part and then producing a rattle can of matching paint. Spendy, but worth it.
        Team PowerBox Systems Americas... If flying were the language of men, soaring would be its poetry.

        Comment


        • #6
          I agree with Asher, spray equipment is a must for serious builders. I have become addicted to Nelson Hobby paint. It's a water based urethane that dries fast, is very durable, fuel and solvent proof and can be mixed to any Randolph, Monokote or Ultracote color. Depending on conditions I have seen it fully cured in about 30 min. By that I mean you could lay painted parts on top of each other and they would not stick together. With the crosslinker added to the last coat it is super tough. I had a CA mishap on a wing and cleaned it off with acetone, not a hint of paint on the rag. I recently painted a 1/6 scale model in one evening. It takes some getting used to though, being water based it sprays differently than solvent based paints and it is expensive. I have done several models now with Solartex and Nelson paint and that's all I care to use any more.

          Comment


          • #7
            Originally posted by Steve P View Post
            +1 to Asher's comment. I have had great luck bringing a colored part to a PPG supplier, having them scan the part and then producing a rattle can of matching paint. Spendy, but worth it.
            Asher...Steve....if I had not found the good old black baron that matched....I was getting ready to head to the one and only place left in town that still does the paint matching/aerosol can routine. I have done it before. It took them a while to do it and I was in a bit of a hurry as I want to fly the model in contest this weekend. Ding, Ding, Ding....and the winner is Asher! Yes...its a TD ship....an Aspire ST. It is the ship I took out to Arizona for the SW Soaring Classic. I crunched the leading edge with my shin on the ground and had to repair and repaint. Note: reference my experience with the not so foam safe CA story. Luckily for me, when I bought the model, it had a mismatched wing tip....the one I damaged, that had a different color red than the rest of the model. I had been wanting to repaint the wing tip to match the rest of the model ever since I got it. But if it aint broke....don't fix it

            Here's what it looks like after the repair....the right panel is the one I repaired and repainted. The wing that I repainted was 1 oz. lighter than the left wing panel....my repair and repaint only added 1/2 oz. so it's still lighter than the left tip panel.
            Last edited by Xroadie; 05-30-2015, 07:16 PM.

            Comment


            • #8
              Originally posted by Swiss1 View Post
              Pete, you need to check the Tamiya line of paints, we sell them in the store and there are many shades of Red in the TS gloss line which are lacquer based.
              Tamiya AS are military mainly semi gloss and matt, and PS are polycarbonate to be used on the inside of Lexan. All there paint goes on very smooth without orange peel, much better quality than Testors.
              To remove any spray can paint we use Easy Off oven cleaner, depending on what type of sub structure, it's quick and efficient.

              Jeremy and Ben
              SCC AAA TT
              We used to have hobby shops all over the place.....now we are down to two...and they are a little bit of drive away. I have a Michaels that I can walk to and they only carry the Testors line. I have used bunches of the Tamiya Military Matt colors....but have never tried their gloss colors. The frustrating thing about any off the shelf spray paint is, the cap seldom matches the color in the can....you have to buy the can and test it to see what you get, those little plastic model cans can be pricey as you know they are in the $6 range.

              I have never tried spray on oven cleaner before.....I like this stuff (see photo)....it is water based and you brush it on the area you want to strip....a lot more control than a spray can....it is very cheap too, works great on your hands for cleaning paint off them as well.....and it smells good too

              BTW....when I said what a mess, I meant it was a mess to remove the red paint without getting it all over the white, black and grey tip as well as the underside of the wing and inside the aileron wiper!
              Last edited by Xroadie; 05-30-2015, 07:32 PM.

              Comment


              • #9
                Originally posted by ingrahal View Post
                I agree with Asher, spray equipment is a must for serious builders. I have become addicted to Nelson Hobby paint. It's a water based urethane that dries fast, is very durable, fuel and solvent proof and can be mixed to any Randolph, Monokote or Ultracote color. Depending on conditions I have seen it fully cured in about 30 min. By that I mean you could lay painted parts on top of each other and they would not stick together. With the crosslinker added to the last coat it is super tough. I had a CA mishap on a wing and cleaned it off with acetone, not a hint of paint on the rag. I recently painted a 1/6 scale model in one evening. It takes some getting used to though, being water based it sprays differently than solvent based paints and it is expensive. I have done several models now with Solartex and Nelson paint and that's all I care to use any more.
                The only spray equipment I have are a few airbrushes that I use on small scale models....I have a small home made spray booth that I use for that purpose. I actually very seldom do large spray painting projects like this, that require a nice wet look gloss coat. Mostly it is just wing tips, or cowls, or wheel pants. I have a few air compressors, but I just do not have a place for a big spray booth. I have a big garage that is filled with cars, motorcycles and bicycles...and now a trailer too...I am not going to shoot in there....so I would still be stuck shooting paint outside, even if I got a good spray gun for big projects.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Pete,
                  You don't need a booth if you can avoid complaints from neighbors. The secret to a class "A" finish without a booth is cutting and polishing the paint. You can spray outside when the wind and humidity is low and the bugs aren't out.
                  I cut my paint with 2000p wet/dry and polish with 3m finesse–it. This process will remove all manner of uh-ohs. It gets rid of any alligatoring, typical of catalyzed urethanes, and gives you a gloss like no other.
                  If you should pick up a bug, pick it off with tweezers and dab a bit of finish in its place. You will be cutting that repair back anyway with the wet/dry.
                  Take a look at Len's ASH 31. It was finished this way.
                  Last edited by Asher Carmichael; 05-30-2015, 07:32 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Xroadie
                    Xroadie commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Asher....I need a list of what's needed to do that. What kind of buffer are you using?

                • #11
                  Originally posted by Xroadie View Post

                  Ding, Ding, Ding....and the winner is Asher! Yes...its a TD ship....an Aspire ST. It is the ship I took out to Arizona for the SW Soaring Classic.

                  Pete,
                  The operative word is "Red".
                  I think the following video explains it all. True for us scalers as well.... But white.

                  A discussion between two radio control thermal duration competition pilots.

                  Comment


                  • Xroadie
                    Xroadie commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I remember seeing that video when it came out....it still makes me laugh

                • #12
                  Pete, here is a paint sprayer that I have used for years. It performs a little better than a rattle can but about the same size spray pattern. I have painted whole models with it but mostly I use on small jobs. It would work nicely in your setup, or you could go outside with it on a bigger project. It's simple and cheap and works really good. Click image for larger version

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                  Here is a link. I recommend getting a larger jar like mine.
                  http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Bru.../dp/B0006MZPLG

                  Comment


                  • Xroadie
                    Xroadie commented
                    Editing a comment
                    LOL...I have one of those in my collection of airbrushes and sprayers! I use it all the time plastic models and even on the occasional RC model and other projects.

                • #13
                  This thread has a lot of good info, Most of my models need some TLC, some more than others, finding the time, etc., is tough. This thread just might motivate me to Get-R-Done! Thanks, and keep the "Info" (and paint) "Flowing"!

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