H9 ASW 20 help

[Mwiley65]

Hello everyone. I have been flying rc since I was a kid and have had many gliders over the years. This is my first large scale glider. I got a really good deal on this kit, the only issue is it appears the paint or gel coat is cracked near the start of the rudder. The fiberglass does not look to be cracked. Is this fix just a quick fill, smooth, and paint? Any recommendations on materials?

I have the recommended spectrum servos and spoilers on order. I’ll have to get the retract another time.

here is some pictures of the damage.

Thanks!
Marshal

[lenb]

The ASW 20, while being a great sailplane for the money, has a less than durable paint finish. Its just a chip from the primer not bonding to the shell. A fill and touch up paint is the best approach.
You may use a polyester filler ( bondo ) or an epoxy, The paint we have used in the past is Ultrakote white from Klasskote. Its a 2 part epoxy, a pain to use but the match is good.


Len

[Mwiley65]

Thanks for the reply Len. I just got some advice from
someone that basically said the exact same
thing. It’s always good when suggestions complement each other.

I know this is entry level and all, it will probably be the best bet for me getting into large scale and aero towing.

Marshal

[gunny11]

What Len said, May I suggest score around the damaged paint a circle around the damaged area with a new X-acto blade and chip away what is loose. Then wick some thin CA glue very carefully around the perimeter of the circle. The polyester filler that i like to use is called Icing (available at a body and paint supplier). I hope this helps.

I have the same sailplane and love it. I run an inline voltage regulator 4.8 volts on the spoilers. Higher voltages gives it the jitters and they burn out eventually.

As far as the retract it was supposed to be included. Any how, most people connect a servo and a arm to the retract unit.

[lenb]

excellent addition regarding the CA Gunny, agree 100%

[Parallax]

Do not attempt to score and chip away.

Compromising the actual structure with an X-acto will create a point of failure under excessive loading. If you don't score enough, its very likely you'll be picking away more gelcoat than you ever bargained for. This all assumes the gelcoat (lack of) adhesion is actually(!) the root cause.

The real question members should be asking is why(!) the cosmetic damage happens to be at the fin root. Was it run into door frame? Is this not more important to determine than the finish? If the the underlying structure, which is way more important than the decorative finish has been compromised as a result of physical damage, this need to be addressed first.

If indeed it turns out out to be poor adhesion of the gelcoat, then simply wick thin cA into the periphery of gel coat. Do not use accelerator; instead allow the Ca to cure of its own accord after it has travelled as far as it will go between the coating and the underlying structure. If there is space...the cA will continue to migrate (by capillary action) until it can't move further.

Only then can you consider filling, sanding and finishing. And in an area that will be subject to bending loads every single landing, the idea of using filler will be a disappointment in rather short order....

Edit; the dry layup evident by the missing decorative finish should be noted by everyone.

[Tom]

This thread is getting as bad as the Facebook one....first off....I have one of these.....the outer surface of the fuselage is not gelcoat....I repeat.....not gelcoat! This plane was manufactured in China with polyester resin and painted after it was out of the mold. The area at the base of the fin was smoothed out with filler and then the whole fuse was painted with “China” 2K paint.......the paint is very thick in spots and tends to develop “cracks” over time. Best thing to do is CA the loose paint down.....feather sand the edge.....little bit of filler/high build primer....paint to match as good as you can.....fly the snot out of it!

[Parallax]

That is a lot of paint (MIL) thickness. Still doesn't explain why it chipped off in the first place on an airframe that hasn't flown yet. The paint fractures point to some sort of significant (bending) event.

[ARUP]

Yes... that paint is thick!!! Like said before the paint isn't gel coat but the fuselage did suffer some kind of 'bending' to crack that paint. I've had two of these. Both flew great! One still flying the other in a new owner's hands. Take the wheel off and use a mechanic's mirror and flashlight to look inside. If it looks cracked then I can give you some tips and tricks for repairs... gratis!