Paritech DG 303 6.52 Meter Build

[Swiss1]

Nice stuff Pete, I like to glue my canopies to the frame while in situ, that way there is no chance of warpage!
My 2 cents

Jeremy
SCCAAA TT TN

[lenb]

While in situ ???? What do you mean?

[Swiss1]

Look it Up!

[Asher Carmichael]

Yes, very nice bird. The 300/303 is a favorite of mine. BTW, it’s good practice to order at least 1 extra canopy when ordering direct from across the pond. I usually order at least 2 extra. No extra cost for shipping and they’re ready at hand if ever needed. You can fix most anything after a misfortune except “ clear”...

[lenb]

Hi Pete.

I would contact PARITEC and see about getting a new canopy and some gap seal tape sent over asap. They're usually very good about stuff like that.
Or, if you decide to use the canopy, Steve and Asher are masters of canopy polishing and can probably offer some advice on reducing the scratch to just a blemish.

As for the canopy trimming, after doing many of them I have found the best way is start with a rough trim about 1/4 inch bigger all the way around.
Place the canopy over the frame ( with the frame installed on the fuse, closed and locked. )
Put a piece of masting tape from the canopy to the top of the fuse, taping it in place, do the same at the nose,
Check the fit all the way around, it should overhang nicely all the way around he edges.
Use a ruler and draw a "registration" line across the tape from the fuse to the canopy, do this on the front and back piece of tame. These are now your exact positioning lines each time you remove and replace the canopy to trim it.
Using a fine point felt pen, start making around the canopy a little closer to the final cut.
Use a sharp exact and carefully slice the tape along the edge fo the canopy so you can remove it from the plane, don't scratch the fuse.
Trim a little and put it back down lining up the marks exactly.
Mark and repeat
Mark and repeat
Mark and repeat

Use will repeat this about 50 times. Take your time and creep in on the final fit. Its worth the effort.
After its close, I use coarse sandpaper to get the last bit, too fine of paper will just melt the canopy from friction and mot do much, just be super carful not to slip and scratch the canopy. Take your time.

Gluing it to the frame is the next joy.
Scot should step in here and offer some advice. He has a very good technique.

Len

[Sled-Works 1]

Impressive bird Len.

[lenb]

Impressive bird Len.

Hi Dave,
Its not mine, its Pete's. Although I would like it.

[Mosquito]

Len probably has at least one on order.....don't let him fool you.

[lenb]

No Tim, but you should see what I do have on order.

[pete914]

Great info guys. Thanks for the comments.
Len, thanks for confirming that there is no fast, easy way to get a good canopy fit. It's just something that takes time.
I actually had them send me another canopy and I should have mentioned that. It's sitting uncut but I'm using this one to sort of "practice"


Paritech hooked me up with a new canopy. Great company!

So, when another rainy weekend stops all flying activities once again...I go out to the workspace and do this a few times....and then I'm happy.

[pete914]

Got the canopy installed. Man, what a process. I'd give it a B- on the install. It's not my worst but I could have spent more time sanding and filling to get the plexiglass to lay completely flat on the frame. It'll do and hopefully from 50 ft at 80 mph it's not too noticeable
Anyway, this was a big hurdle for me so I'm glad it's done.
I used Zap a Dap a Goo I bought from Jeremy. It's supposed to be good stuff. I used line tape to help trim the canopy to fit. I then sanded the mating surfaces of the canopy and frame and added glue. Sanding and finishing the canopy edge is really challenging. If you have the option, get the factory to install and finish your canopy!!

Anyway, It's time to get the elevator and rudder sorted along with the battery tray...

[lenb]

Hey Pete, thats a big hurdle to get over. it looks good in the photos.

[pete914]

Len,
Thanks for your advice and support! The heavy grit sandpaper you suggested made all the difference.

[Swiss1]

Relax Pete, it looks good!

Jeremy
SCCAAA TT TN

[yyz]

Nice work, Pete. What a gorgeous glider. Really like the little head shade paint treatment you did on the back of the canopy. My Kestrel had this but have never seen it on a DG, Looks cool!

Mike

[pete914]

Thanks Mike!




4 standard sized HV servo's per wing installed. Airbrake covers took some sanding and turned out OK. The top surface control horns slots in well and I used glassed expoxy to join the skins together. The connection seems very solid.


Cutting out the linkage covers. I've always loved the look of these on wings...







CG set at 120mm from the leading edge. Slightly nose heavy for the maiden.




The seatpain will cover this but I'm going to wait on the scale cockpit until the glider is flying well.

No regulator. Simple 2-battery redundancy on the Rx. The FrSky redundancy Rx has individual servo overload protection and telemetry for current draw, voltage, etc. I think some sort of On/Off switch would be nice at the aerotow events. I need something that can handle 25 amps I would say?

So, just about ready for maiden!!! More photos soon...

[French1]

Are the control horn fairings comes with the kit Pete?

[Swiss1]

Don't see the pics Pete!!

[pete914]

Thanks Jeremy any better?



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[pete914]

The maiden is done!!

The weather was 60 degrees today and I couldn't resist the call of the skies.
I got two flights late in the day. Smooth air allowed for an effortless takeoff. No nose over tendencies on full power.
My 14s 5000 mah packs are good for about 1:30 climbing or 1200 ft of altitude gain total. Not too bad!!!
I'm thrilled! Take off and landings were a treat. This DG is a very stable glider. Flaps and airbrakes had little effect on trim. Overall no surprises in handling.