1:4 1928 RRG Professor

[ARUP]

All the shear webs are installed with one wing. Next is to install the 'false' ribs or whatever you call 'em. They are to maintain the top surface foil and don't touch the bottom surface covering.



One or two get glued then sanded fair to the others. The masking tape protects the main ribs during this stage. When they are finished everything get sanded again in preparation for cap stripping.

[Dion Dunn]

Honestly, nothing jumped out at me but I wasn’t up there looking for another airplane. One gentleman had a room full of giant scale sailplanes in the swapmeet area, but that’s all that caught my eye.

[ARUP]

More stuff! The first pic shows where/how little segments of CF tow were epoxied over the hinge 'ears'. The second pic shows three stages. On the left side of the pic you can see shear web in place. The shear webs are put on inside portion TE of wing and on inside portion of LE of aileron. The center part of pic shows balsa against shear webs and this clamped until glue dries. The right side of the pic shows the wing waiting for its shear web. Once the shear webs are in place the cap strips can be added. Then the 'D' tube gets closed up after installing the horns and cables. When that is done the ailerons will get cut free from the wing and finished at their LEs.



Buenas noches!

[ARUP]

Thanks, Dion! Were there any models you just had to have at the Toldeo show? Yep... Irish skin. My nose has to get 'de-chunked' even further. I wasn't so lucky. Luck of the Irish...sheesh... who ever came up with that!!!!

[Dion Dunn]

Looking good Michael. Must be nose operation season. I had two chunks taken out of mine recently, but both tested negative. Damn Irish skin.....

[ARUP]

The bell crank assemblies were mounted then the cables' runs were double checked making sure the 'pass-through' holes in the ribs for the cables were adequate. The wings' false TEs and ailerons' LEs were cut from 1/4" x 1/8" spruce sticks. The second picture shows a taper cut into these spars so that they can fit the tip better. A straight edge was used for alignment to cut the slots in the ribs for these to fit. The 'cutter' was just an appropriately sized hardwood stick with sandpaper glued onto it. The slot was widened a bit to account for the hinges. There are 10 hinges per aileron. The hinge positions were marked onto the spars and the table saw blade was set to cut the hinge slots on top of the spars so that the hinges are flush to the top surface. The hinges were prepared for being attached to the wings in that they were shortened, an extra hole was drilled so the epoxy could ooze through and the hinges were scuffed with an X-acto knife so the epoxy can 'grab' better. The hinges have been glued in place. The ailerons can be removed for servicing by removing two long hinge pins for each. Next, strips of CF tow will be epoxied over the top of these so that the possibility of them tearing out will be minimized (I hope!). When this is done balsa and 1/64 ply cap strips will get put onto everything after a few more elements are added.






The last two pics should be reversed. One is pre-epoxy showing one of the long 1/32" wire hinge pins.
Later!

[ARUP]

It gets pretty humid around here. I lived in Houston TX for 11 years and know what humidity is! I paint with dope. If it blushes I just buff it some before clear coating. Usually, that isn't needed. I let the model gas off a few days (indoors) before clear coating. I can't comment on any other paint methods.

[Tango Juliet]

You also don't have the high humidity I get down here on the coast. There's only a couple of times a year wen I can paint outside without the humidity ruining it.

[ARUP]

I paint outside!

[Tango Juliet]

The paint is what I was hoping to avoid. I don't have a place where I can paint something this size.

[ARUP]

You don't need Solartex! Koverall with Stix-It is really simple! You will have to fill and paint, tough but that isn't difficult... just takes a little more time.

[Tango Juliet]

When is Horizon? I doubt it. I haven't touched it in a few months now and I've got a lot to do to it. I was going to finish it with Solartex, but I understand it is disappearing quickly from the market, so I don't know what I'm going to do when I get to that point.

[ARUP]

Servos in the center wing section will drive push rods. The push rods will connect to bell cranks at the root ends of the outer panels. When installing the outer panels to the center section the ailerons will be free to droop until they get connected and the wing panels are pushed together. I used this to advantage when setting up the bell cranks and cables so that the end of the bell crank will protrude a bit from the root end (pushing the bell crank end into the wing will raise the aileron) , facilitating the connection to the push rod! Sometimes I surprise myself!

Here are the components making up the bell crank. It is made from 1/8" phenolic sheet. The aileron horns at the inner end of the wing panel will be 30mm long and the ones at the outer end of the wing panel will be 25mm. This is reflected in the spacing of the holes on the bell crank. A little bit of 'Ackerman steering geometry' was built into the design. Also, adjusting the cable tension will be by the simple expedient of twisting the cables one way or other. I plane on making aileron horn connecting shackles of various lengths to help with any adjustments in tension, too! When the other wing panel gets all of its 'acruitments' and the 'rea' cables get run then the 'D' tube portions of the wing can get closed up.







Stay tuned!

[ARUP]

Hi, TJ- thanks! The pulleys are from McMaster-Carr but, unlike the other sized pulleys I have, I forgot to put the part numbers on the bag. Is your bird gonna be ready for Horizon?

[ARUP]

Thanks, Steve! Glad you are enjoying it!