Gotta get to work!
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The strut carry-through wire/rod mount was cut to length from bass wood. It was grooved on the table saw then the groove was finished using the off-cut 3/16" music wire. Just scrape the groove with the music wire edge until it nestles perfectly! Balsa needed to be relieved on the fuselage to clear the strut attach wire/rod. Epoxy does the job to attach the assembly to the fuselage.
Gotta get to work! -
The Professor should be a fine flying model, Fred China built one at the same scale and I flew it when I was up his way, I was tempted to take it home with me.Leave a comment:
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What the heck kind a bit is that in yer Dremel? Whatever it is, it looks like it's been worn to a nub! -
Mmmmm..... nachos!
Deer Sanny Klaws, al I wan for Crismiss iz Dwimill kut tof weelz. I bin uh good boy an it wuz dat bad kid Len hoo pulld on Luisas har not me!
The wing strut carry through mount was fabricated from 3/16" music wire. Heat the ends cherry red, hammer flat, drill for 4-40 bolts to pass, dress and shape with Dremel, sand, clean mask and paint... whew! When the paint dries it can get mounted tonight.
Have a great day!Leave a comment:
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TJ, you'll like those pilots as they are very nice and ... poseable! I drove my '59VW around. Gotta get the engine 'broken-in'. My buddy, Bill, and I put a new engine, tranny, disc brakes-lines-dual circuit master cylinder in it not too long ago. On to the Professor! Paper patterns were made in order to cut the fore upper and lower 'keel' parts. The parts were cut from 1/16" marine ply. The rear portion of the keels were made from 3/8" balsa. Two 12 degree bevels was put on the edge. It is a simple thing to do. Measure the angle of the fuselage formers (12 degrees from horizontal), set the table saw blade, push the wood through, flip over end for end then push the wood through again to get a nice 'V' bevel that has twelve degrees each side! There is a pic showing my 'fancy' half sand paper sanding stick. I used to to true the bevels. Two more skid mounting blocks were installed. Only the rear-most left to go!
Buenas noches!Leave a comment:
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Looking good! I've ordered two pilots from Tailored. One in 1/3.5 scale to be my Flight Lieutenant and one in 1/4 scale to be my Cadet.
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Work is done every day but there isn't a lot to show for it! The pylon as shown above narrows too much on the rear vertical so it had to be built up to widen it. The 3-views just won't 'flesh out'. Compromises and interpretations must be made. The pylon fairing was constructed pretty much 'by eye' since it was difficult to determine how it was made from photo evidence. The top wing platform 'teardrop' extension was added then the angled 'spine' from the tip of the teardrop to the fuselage was added. Verticals were added so the 1/64" ply sheet will have 'purchase'. Hash marks were penciled onto the rear portion of this pylon fairing showing how the angles/ bevels were sanded. I used a special 1/4" wide sanding stick that has sand paper on one end only... the other end of the stick maintains contact with other side of structure. Rubbing the stick to and fro gives the desired bevel to which the ply sheeting will contact. Fiddly stuff it was but it's done!
I made the fore skid mount block from Bass. It is a custom sanded fit and will be drilled to receive a bolt to capture the skid. I have three more to make. I want to finish those then make the upper and lower keels. The last pic is my 'Tailored Pilots' pilot! He is looking pretty cool!
Gute Nacht!Leave a comment:
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Forward fuselage doublers were cut from 1/16" ply. More 1/16" ply put at the pylon. The pylon has a 'step' because the incidence was not proper when the fore sheeting was put in place. It'll be easily rectified with some filler pieces, later.
The rear third section of the pylon will be addressed, next.Leave a comment:
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And how are you making your pushrods? Are they wood dowel with threaded rod ends? -
Some attention was given to the wing mount pylon. A maple block was drilled to receive the wing retention pin and its brass guide tube and this was epoxied in place. Spruce diagonals were epoxied in place so that they are attached to the maple block along with fuselage former. This combination should be pretty stout in tension (flying loads) and compression longitudinally (landing loads). So far this arrangement has worked well for the Eaglet! I started putting floors in place. The diagonals were removed wherever a floor was placed. Save weight anywhere, right?
A schematic was drawn for the elevator input travel. The elevator pin moves a total of 11mm which isn't much. The schematic shows a triangle with the apex being the pivot for the 'servo throw reducer'. The servo arm, as configured, has 32mm total travel. The 'servo throw reducer' has to be ~100mm long to reach down to where the servo is located relative the the elevator push rod is located. So, I drew a 90mm eye-to-eye triangle with a base of 32mm then found where an 11mm width was located and constructed the 'reducer' from phenolic accordingly. The 'reducer' is pierced by an aluminum tube with a wood dowel inside it. A lite ply diagonal supports it. Larger aluminum tube segments act as bushings which are captured by gussets. All connections with push rods are interference fits. As said previously, slop in the system has to be minimal. If the servo was connected directly to the elevator push rod the servo wouldn't have much travel and the least bit of drive train play would be a cause for trimming issues and possible flutter (I guess)! If you spend time on making one control surface 'right' the elevator is the one!!!
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