Apparently, ironing on covering is a perishable skill...
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Sapphire ~ Vintage EDF model by Peter Goldsmith (Build Thread by JimD)
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Covering takes luck...the more you practice, the luckier you get!
Soooooo.....build more models and you will become luckier! 😉
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I've never used Cover grip? do you brush it on just the perimeter of the piece you are doing or on everything like the ribs and turbulators and let it dry and then iron on the covering? Does the stuff smell bad, being I'm going to be using it in my basement and not outdoors?
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Cover Grip is water base with no bad smell or strong odor. It is white like Elmer's Glue and can be used indoors (unlike Balsarite).
It should be the consistency of milk. I use a small epoxy mixing cup (aka medicine cup) and pour a small amount out at a time because a small amount goes a long way. If it comes out of the bottle thicker than milk (tends to get thicker as bottle contents goes down) add a little water to thin it out.
Use a small brush (1/4" wide is good) and apply around the periphery of area to be covered. One brush dip will paint out for about six inches, so it can be applied very quickly. Let it dry to the touch before covering is applied. Cover Grip keeps the edges of the covering from creeping as heat is applied to shrink the main area being covered. This is especially helpful with UltraCote!A Site for Soar Eyes
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I had some 3-1/2" x 1/8" rubberbands and doubled them to get the job done (but don't like the knot in the middle). Going to try these:
https://www.staples.com/Staples-Rubb...product_808016
If they work, think I will splurge on these for the yellow bands! Who wants to trade for the other colors?
A Site for Soar Eyes
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I asked Peter where he got his rubber bands on the prototype and he said he just searched Amazon. Sounds like a 7"x1/8" rubber band would work fine. Lots of choices on Amazon, just search 7" x 1/8" rubber bands.
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Hi Mark,
Once the model was covered, I did a test fit of the windscreen and it wrapped around the framework perfectly without the need to trim it. I noticed that pulling back and down from the bottom rear corners held it tight to the framework...so...I applied a piece of tape to each side of the rear bottom corners that extended back and downward.
Canopy glue was applied to the outline of the fuselage framework and the windscreen was carefully placed onto the fuselage while bending and pulling downward and back with the tape. Once tightly in place the tape was stuck down to the fuselage covering to hold it in place while the glue set.
My advice is to practice this maneuver without the glue to make sure you know how to hold things. using a thin piece of tape or mark to designate the centerline of the windscreen helps a lot with the initial centering.
Hope this helps!
ps. I used a white water based type canopy glue. Zap Goo also would work ( but better get it perfect the first try and do the whole process quickly).
A Site for Soar Eyes
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We are right in line on the ballast weight. After filling the nose cavity of mine with lead shot and epoxy, I constructed a mounting box and epoxied in seven 1oz sections of lead weight. So the total weight of the lead, plus epoxy and mounting box, is going to match your 7.4ozA Site for Soar Eyes
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