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Cmelak Z-37-2 (Smellyak) ~ Airplane by Peter Goldsmith Designs (Build Thread by JimD)

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  • Cmelak Z-37-2 (Smellyak) ~ Airplane by Peter Goldsmith Designs (Build Thread by JimD)

    Link to Peter Goldsmith Designs Web Page:

    https://www.petergoldsmithdesigns.co...ct-page/cmelak

    This is the first kit that I got from Peter, but the 40% Schweizer 1-26 got ahead of it...then the 1/3-scale Slingsby Swallow...then the 1/3-scale Slingsby Skylark...then the EDF Sapphire...has been a busy building year!!!

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    Like Peter's Prototype and Len's "Smelly", mine will be powered with a DA-150 using a 2-blade Mejzlik
    30x12
    Carbon prop.

    Peter's prototype used the Hangar 9 Pawnee gear while Len's plane uses a robust custom aluminum gear from T-n-T Landing Products. Both have fuselage mounted gear.
    Mine will be different in that the landing gear will be wing mounted.

    Most of the structure will be built using Deluxe Materials Aliphatic Resin glue (I have become a major fan of this companies products) that is available through Swiss1 at the Model Box and Horizon Hobby.
    Last edited by JimD; 10-16-2018, 06:55 PM.
    A Site for Soar Eyes

  • #2
    Fin and Rudder

    Both are built over a thin plywood "spine" which allows them to be constructed straight and true on a flat surface (even though they have a symmetrical tapered airfoil shape).

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    A Site for Soar Eyes

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    • #3
      Stab and Elevator

      This kit was one of the very first that Peter produced, so some of the parts were in need of slight modification to match with updates to the design as it evolved. For example, the sheeting thickness was increased, so we had to laminate balsa strips to either side of the stab trailing edge and elevator leading edge parts in order to match. Current kits have corrected parts, so some of what you see in this thread will not be necessary in the newer kit builds.


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      • #4
        Fuselage

        Start by identifying all of the fuselage parts and marking left and right sides. Note that right side is shorter than the left side to account for the right thrust built into the firewall.


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        A Site for Soar Eyes

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        • #5
          The fuselage sides are outlined with 1/4"x3/8" spruce stick and the top edge of the fuselage sides has a longeron that runs from nose to tail. Make this longeron by laminating the spruce stick parts using a scarf joint. Clamping the parts to a straight edge assures a nice straight longeron. Mark the location of all the formers (nose to tail) on the longerons for later reference. Notches in the sides of the cabin area formers can be used to set the spacing between the top and bottom stick location. Our scarf join was located to overlap at one of the formers. Since the fuselage is a box with square corners, use builder's squares to keep check on the structure to make sure it is true.

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          A Site for Soar Eyes

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          • #6
            As parts are added, keep check in all directions to make sure you keep things square and true.

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            • #7
              Note the full-length longerons with former location markings.

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              • #8
                Once the main section of the fuselage is built and is nice and square, you can move on to pulling the nose together at the firewall. The firewall is slotted to make holding the sides together much easier.

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                • #9
                  Beautiful building, Jim

                  Comment


                  • ARUP
                    ARUP commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Jim is a building machine!

                  • JimD
                    JimD commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thanks guys, your encouragement means a lot to me!

                • #10
                  Now to finish out the sheeting around the nose. We added balsa sheeting to the sides that Peter does not call for. Just seemed like a good idea to use and adds a little needed nose weight.

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                  • #11
                    Building out the rear fuselage section is greatly aided by having a flat and level workbench. If the bench top is level, it is easy to square up the fuselage sides using the bench surface as a reference.

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                    With the front section of the fuselage sitting level and square on the benchtop, the rear longerons should be parallel to the surface of the benchtop. A tail post support is used to set this level position of the longerons and to align them with the centerline of the fuselage (there is a centerline drawn on the benchtop as a reference for this). The rear fuselage formers are friction fit into place (using the marks we made earlier on the longerons) and crutch supports added to keep the longerons level. Take your time and use lots of builder's squares, levels, and weights to hold things in place.

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                    • #12
                      Fuselage takes shape and strength increases as truss structure is added.

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                      • #13
                        Time to add some personality!!!

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                        • MarnochS
                          MarnochS commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Excellent.......looking forward to the wing construction with the new gear mounting

                      • #14

                        Hi Jim, do you have any info. on how you made your flat and level work bench?

                        Comment


                        • JimD
                          JimD commented
                          Editing a comment
                          Wasn't cheap, but it is an excellent product. Disc on bottom of each leg can be adjusted as needed to compensate for variations in floor. Surface is very rigid and flat. Also has variable height adjustments. Bought this workbench from Lowe's:

                          https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gladiator-9...nch/1000404133

                        • JimD
                          JimD commented
                          Editing a comment
                          We use Homasote sound board to cover the top of the workbench. It is relatively inexpensive and is easy to push pins into. Prevents damage to the top of the workbench and is replaceable.

                          https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x...6136/202090212

                      • #15
                        That's a lot of work in one day Jim
                        Looking good, dare I ask if will be doing Towing duty in 2 weeks

                        Jeremy
                        SCCAAA TT TN

                        Comment


                        • JimD
                          JimD commented
                          Editing a comment
                          We live in hope! 😎
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