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Sapphire ~ Vintage EDF model by Peter Goldsmith (Build Thread by JimD)

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  • #31
    Apparently, ironing on covering is a perishable skill...
    Mark L Taylor
    Team Horizon / BVM Rep.

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    • JimD
      JimD commented
      Editing a comment
      Covering takes luck...the more you practice, the luckier you get!

      Soooooo.....build more models and you will become luckier! 😉

    • JimD
      JimD commented
      Editing a comment
      BTW...if you use Deluxe Materials Cover Grip, you will be luckier. 👍

    • Newman12
      Newman12 commented
      Editing a comment
      I've never used Cover grip? do you brush it on just the perimeter of the piece you are doing or on everything like the ribs and turbulators and let it dry and then iron on the covering? Does the stuff smell bad, being I'm going to be using it in my basement and not outdoors?

  • #32
    Cover Grip is water base with no bad smell or strong odor. It is white like Elmer's Glue and can be used indoors (unlike Balsarite).

    It should be the consistency of milk. I use a small epoxy mixing cup (aka medicine cup) and pour a small amount out at a time because a small amount goes a long way. If it comes out of the bottle thicker than milk (tends to get thicker as bottle contents goes down) add a little water to thin it out.

    Use a small brush (1/4" wide is good) and apply around the periphery of area to be covered. One brush dip will paint out for about six inches, so it can be applied very quickly. Let it dry to the touch before covering is applied. Cover Grip keeps the edges of the covering from creeping as heat is applied to shrink the main area being covered. This is especially helpful with UltraCote!
    A Site for Soar Eyes

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    • MarkY
      MarkY commented
      Editing a comment
      Jim. have you ever placed the Cover Grip between the plastic film layers? Say on trim or a color change? Mark

    • JimD
      JimD commented
      Editing a comment
      Hi Mark, it doesn't really work for a covering to covering bond. Being a water base product, it beads up on the film surface whereas is soaks into a wood surface.

    • Steve P
      Steve P commented
      Editing a comment
      While intended for the wood to covering bond, it can work between layers such as wide seams and repairs. Need to keep brushing to apply a thin layer as it dries. I just did this on a Bidule 170 restoration. I use disposable acid brushes and a small dose cup when using the product.

  • #33
    What size rubber bands did you use for the wing?
    Mark L Taylor
    Team Horizon / BVM Rep.

    Comment


    • #34
      I had some 3-1/2" x 1/8" rubberbands and doubled them to get the job done (but don't like the knot in the middle). Going to try these:

      https://www.staples.com/Staples-Rubb...product_808016

      If they work, think I will splurge on these for the yellow bands! Who wants to trade for the other colors?

      https://www.staples.com/Staples-Big-...product_383318
      A Site for Soar Eyes

      Comment


      • #35
        I asked Peter where he got his rubber bands on the prototype and he said he just searched Amazon. Sounds like a 7"x1/8" rubber band would work fine. Lots of choices on Amazon, just search 7" x 1/8" rubber bands.

        Comment


        • JimD
          JimD commented
          Editing a comment
          McMaster-Carr has bag of 300 natural rubber 7" x 1/8" bands for $9.90 (aka 1 lifetime supply)

          https://www.mcmaster.com/12205t87

        • Mark Taylor
          Mark Taylor commented
          Editing a comment
          Ordered a box of 100 from Amazon for 5 bucks...

      • #36
        Does anyone know where R1b goes?

        Comment


        • Mark Taylor
          Mark Taylor commented
          Editing a comment
          Inside R1 at the trailing edge to support the steel pin.

      • #37
        I know you'll all watch it.



        Len Buffinton
        Team Horizon Hobby

        Comment


        • Mosquito
          Mosquito commented
          Editing a comment
          How It's Made, unequivocally the best show ever produced. I probably have seen this episode before but still watched it in it's entirety.

        • ARUP
          ARUP commented
          Editing a comment
          Mosquito gets my vote as a 'Rubber Band Inspector'!

      • #38
        Since the edf unit is detachable via the bottom hatch you could substitute a simple hatch in its place for non-powered flying!

        Comment


        • #39
          Glued the vertical on... only took 10 rolls of Ultracoat!
          Mark L Taylor
          Team Horizon / BVM Rep.

          Comment


          • #40
            Congratulations!
            A Site for Soar Eyes

            Comment


            • #41
              Hey Jim, How did you tackle the canopy/windscreen?
              Mark L Taylor
              Team Horizon / BVM Rep.

              Comment


              • #42
                Hi Mark,

                Once the model was covered, I did a test fit of the windscreen and it wrapped around the framework perfectly without the need to trim it. I noticed that pulling back and down from the bottom rear corners held it tight to the framework...so...I applied a piece of tape to each side of the rear bottom corners that extended back and downward.

                Canopy glue was applied to the outline of the fuselage framework and the windscreen was carefully placed onto the fuselage while bending and pulling downward and back with the tape. Once tightly in place the tape was stuck down to the fuselage covering to hold it in place while the glue set.

                My advice is to practice this maneuver without the glue to make sure you know how to hold things. using a thin piece of tape or mark to designate the centerline of the windscreen helps a lot with the initial centering.

                Hope this helps!

                ps. I used a white water based type canopy glue. Zap Goo also would work ( but better get it perfect the first try and do the whole process quickly).

                Click image for larger version

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                A Site for Soar Eyes

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                • Mark Taylor
                  Mark Taylor commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Awesome! I have used Zap canopy glue on jets, dries clear. Planning on using it for this project.

              • #43
                I see that RC sailboat in the BKG. I have them too. And that one looks like you built it.

                The plane looks great. Reminds a bit of my big sinbad I just completed.

                Comment


                • JimD
                  JimD commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The sailboat was built by my father-in-law. The Sapphire does resemble your Sinbad...the EDF is crazy, jet sound in slow flying plane.

              • #44
                Hey Jim,
                How much weight did it take to balance your plane? I filled the cavity with #9 shot, and it took another 7.4 oz. to balance mid-range. (yes, ALL the gear is installed!)
                Mark L Taylor
                Team Horizon / BVM Rep.

                Comment


                • #45
                  We are right in line on the ballast weight. After filling the nose cavity of mine with lead shot and epoxy, I constructed a mounting box and epoxied in seven 1oz sections of lead weight. So the total weight of the lead, plus epoxy and mounting box, is going to match your 7.4oz
                  A Site for Soar Eyes

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                  • Mark Taylor
                    Mark Taylor commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Thank you, feel better now!
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