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Sapphire ~ Vintage EDF model by Peter Goldsmith (Build Thread by JimD)

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  • #16
    Mine was centered ok. I guess that is what threw me off in the pic with the shim on one side.

    What I have had an issue with is the nose cone pieces not being wide enough to fit the nose. It was about a 1/8" to narrow on either side. I had a bunch of spare blocks so I started to shape one out of a solid piece last night. Glad I have my buddy down from Canada who is in to model Rocketry to help. He is pretty good at making nose cones for his rockets so this was right up his alley!

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    • JimD
      JimD commented
      Editing a comment
      That's odd, my nose blocks were perfect!

  • #17
    All good. Made one up last night.

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    • #18
      Going with something just a bit different...

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      • JimD
        JimD commented
        Editing a comment
        Yep, I thought about that too...decided to go stock on this one...but...there may be a night Sapphire in my future.

      • Swiss1
        Swiss1 commented
        Editing a comment
        Just my 2 cents. but would it not be best to invert those LED's so a better view is had from the underside!

      • FiremanBill
        FiremanBill commented
        Editing a comment
        May not present well in the pic but they are actually horizontal, shining back and forward with the row in front of the spar.. It should equally distribute the light to both above and below with the transparent covering.
        Last edited by FiremanBill; 10-23-2018, 07:06 PM.

    • #19
      Hey Jim, How did you hinge the elevator?

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      • JimD
        JimD commented
        Editing a comment
        I used two pieces of UltraCote, one strip on top and one on the bottom.

    • #20
      Thank you...!

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      • #21
        Do you have a picture of the root rib, particularly around S1 and S2?

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        • #22
          I wish I could help you out I've got mine already sheeted over, But maybe I can help answer your question if you have one about them.

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          • #23
            Mark,

            While I don't have a specific picture of the area you are interested in, I think a bit of information about this area will help.

            The S1 and S2 parts fit between the top and bottom spars and between the W1 & W2 ribs and the W2 & W3 ribs.

            There are two each of the S1 and S2 parts for each wing half.

            One each of the S1 & S2 shear webs sit flush with the rear of the spar edge and the other pair S1 & S2 sit flush with the front of the spars.

            You can use the wing joiner wrapped in wax paper to assist with setting this spacing.

            The point is to make a box that the spar joiner will slide into.

            Once the first three ribs are set using the S1 and S2 shear webs to set spacing and the dihedral angle on ribs W1 (and before gluing on the top spar), use a razor saw to cut out the piece of the W1 and W2 ribs between the top and bottom spar (note the dotted lines on these ribs). Clean out any debris from this cut and lay in the wing joiner blade to check for fit. Once satisfied, you can then add the top spar. Again, slide in the wing joiner to make sure it fits in nicely. You don't want for the fit to be too loose or too tight.

            for each wing half, there are singles of the rest of the shear webs and they position on the centerline of the spar. There are no shear webs between W10 and W14. Set the spacing between these ribs to match the other rib bay spacing.

            _______

            It is important for the W1 ribs to be perpendicular to the spar line. One way to do this is to build over the plan. Another way (and what I like) is to draw a reference line down the length of your workbench for the spar line, and another line (at 90 degrees to the spar line) at one end for the W1 rib to align over. Then use the shear webs to set rib spacing. This is generally an easier way to get both wings to be identical length. Building over the plan can be frustrating, because the plan paper can change dimension slightly and the parts may not match exactly with the plan...then you have to decided whether to sand the parts to fit the plan, or just be offset from the plan shows.

            Hope this helps!

            JimD
            A Site for Soar Eyes

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            • #24
              Yes, very helpful! Thank you!

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              • #25
                The S1's and S2's are missing from my kit... your description spells it out perfectly!

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                • #26
                  I am currently building my Sapphire and noticed the template for the bulkheads is not 90 degrees, but 95 degrees, is that correct?

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                  • #27
                    That is correct! The bulkheads lean rearward, so use the plywood template guide to set them in place at the correct angle.
                    A Site for Soar Eyes

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                    • #28
                      Originally posted by JimD View Post
                      That is correct! The bulkheads lean rearward, so use the plywood template guide to set them in place at the correct angle.
                      Wow I'm glad I saw this, I just figured Pete put a 90 degree template in there for us to use and I was going to use my 1x2x3 blocks to set the bulkheads, that would have been a mistake.. is that angle to correct for the bowing of the stringers or something?

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                      • #29
                        When you watch the Sapphire in flight, the bulbous nose of the fuselage sits slightly down...meaning those bulkheads are basically vertical. Seems to me that Peter had this in mind in the design. At least this is how I envision the design.

                        When you fly the Sapphire under power, you must resist the urge to apply up elevator. It climbs on the lift of the wing, not from the thrust of the EDF...so, it climbs with this nose low attitude.
                        A Site for Soar Eyes

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                        • #30
                          Is the wing one piece or two?

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                          • Newman12
                            Newman12 commented
                            Editing a comment
                            It can be either.

                          • JimD
                            JimD commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Yes, it could be either. Peter's design concept was for two piece wing and detachable stab so model will fit into a small vehicle.
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