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40% Ka-3 part scratch part kit

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  • #76
    The radio components position in the airframe have now been worked out. Most of the hardware will be in the nose behind the instrument panel, leaving the 14 ch receiver and Eagle Tree Guardian under the wing.
    This requires two power leads and one servo lead to be routed from the nose to under the wing along the inside of the fuselage, possibly attached to the underside of the 1/8 X 1/4 side stringers. The power leads will be from the 20 Amp magnetic switch to the receiver with one lead “Y”ed to the Sky Melody TE vario located in the nose. The magnetic switch will be actuated by a R3SW receiver from the DS16 transmitter. A 20 Amp master switch is required to kill all power from the battery to all systems to prevent draining of the battery (it has happened) below it’s threshold by accident.
    Actuating this switch was left to the spoiler lever located on the left side of the cockpit front. Starting with a boss epoxy to the diagonal brace so creating a pivot for the aluminum spoiler lever. Possible remove-ability was behind the mounting of the switch and actuating lever in case it was required in the future. To test feasibility the switch unit will be removed for the painting of the airframe and then remounted before covering.
    The spoiler lever will be glass-beaded and clear coated before the final assembly.

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    • #77
      You carve your own pilot too???

      Amazing.
      Len Buffinton
      Team Horizon Hobby

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      • Gene C
        Gene C commented
        Editing a comment
        Len,
        We will just say attempting at present.

      • ARUP
        ARUP commented
        Editing a comment
        Very cool stuff, here!

    • #78
      Slow work on the pilot figure. The buildup and removal of material are made in steps with drying time between so this project will take a while. There are the eyes, mouth, ears and maybe and expression to add before any finish detailing is done. At this stage though, he may be between his late sixties and early seventies. And no I’m not looking in a mirror to sculpted him.
      I'm sure that, regardless what he will look like, after my wife does up his apparel he will be fit to fly the Ka-3.

      Comment


      • gunny11
        gunny11 commented
        Editing a comment
        Plastic putty face lift.... Gene, your amazing!

      • Gene C
        Gene C commented
        Editing a comment
        gunny11,
        Try lightweight spackling compound. Much easier to work with, also easier to correct mistakes or profiles. Once fully dry it also sands smooth.

    • #79
      Yes, I have tried that stuff, but I'm a big fan of "Icing"

      Comment


      • Gene C
        Gene C commented
        Editing a comment
        gunny11,
        I looked it up on line and the polyester base would melt the foam foundation in this application. Defiantly a product for use on a solid base but I'll defiantly keep it in mind for future applications.
        Thanks for the tip.

      • ARUP
        ARUP commented
        Editing a comment
        Just coat the blue foam with a couple of layers of wood glue. It will get sealed sufficiently to use polyester resin products. I do this all the time when making cowl plugs.

      • gunny11
        gunny11 commented
        Editing a comment
        Yes, that's what I do but I use west system epoxy resin, then icing for my plugs.

    • #80
      Thanks for the suggestions on the foam prep. I take it that the West systems epoxy may attack the blue foam also. Getting close to sealing but have ears yet to do.
      Took a break from the head and worked on setting the "V" tail geometry this afternoon. It was nip and tuck for a long while until it all just fell into place. Even after setting it in with epoxy a half dozen checks were made just to insure nothing had moved.
      Should be able to finish up the fuselage painting by the weekend.

      Comment


      • #81
        Originally posted by Gene C View Post
        Thanks for the suggestions on the foam prep. I take it that the West systems epoxy may attack the blue foam also.
        Won't attack any foam... Blue, green, pink, white beaded styrofoam and soft green floral foam. I use the 206 slow hardener

        Comment


        • Gene C
          Gene C commented
          Editing a comment
          Thanks, that will make it easy and one less step to due as I have the same combination of epoxy on the shop shelf.

      • #82
        Started the plywood sheeting of the nose with as many clothspins as it takes to get the job done. My only concern is that I'll run short just when more are needed.

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        • #83
          Having known Gene for a very long time, I can say with certainty that the pilot bust is not a likeness of Gene--or any other human I've ever seen around his shop. Just saying.

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          • #84
            It was time to stop for a review of the project before finishing the side sheeting of the nose. Besides the workbench required a major cleaning at this point. The build progression is fast approaching the fact that the wings will need to be built. I'm fast running out of procrastination's on the subject. I've mentioned before my fondness of wings for those that have been following this build.
            All the hardware bolted up without any issues (one less procrastination point) with the wing mount pins sliding in and out of the brackets with ease. The lower strut pins will require a lanyard to keep them in sight when removed (one of many great suggestions so far).
            The pilot figure has now been coated in epoxy and awaiting some final finish work before painting starts.
            Last edited by Gene C; 08-08-2018, 02:06 PM. Reason: Spelling

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            • #85
              The fuselage part of the Ka-3 airframe is speedily coming to completion. Placing the side stringers posed a problem in measuring the width of the spreaders between point A to point B. The dimensions for both were given on the full size drawing but not between. An attempt to calculate the widths failed miserably when assembled so it was back to a trick used on installing the Cherokee stringers. 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum angle was clamped on each side at point A and B to provide a straight line in two plains so measuring was now a no brainier, why hadn't the thought come earlier. The side stringers could now be fitted and secured to the fuselage diagonals with ease keeping it all in line.

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              • #86
                Finished up the fuselage stringers the other day along with the cockpit side panels.

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                • #87
                  Gee, Gene, it would be ashamed to cover up that fuselage with fabric.....
                  awsome work!

                  Comment


                  • ARUP
                    ARUP commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Agreed! I wonder if there are any done in a 'sheer' scheme like Dean Gradwell's Cherokee.

                • #88
                  Gentlemen,
                  I draped some Neutral covering left over from the 1/3 scale Cherokee N72DG build over the aft section of the Ka-3 air frame. Due to the wide open structure all detail is immediately hidden once material is placed on the airframe.
                  My thought was hopefully to have a translucent Red fuselage with Red on the wood covered sections, trim and Neutral covering the open wing and stabilizer bays.

                  Comment


                  • Steve P
                    Steve P commented
                    Editing a comment
                    It is going to look beautiful in flight! Should glow. Thanks, as always, for sharing your magnificent build.

                • #89
                  Originally posted by Gene C View Post
                  Gentlemen,
                  I draped some Neutral covering left over from the 1/3 scale Cherokee N72DG build over the aft section of the Ka-3 air frame. Due to the wide open structure all detail is immediately hidden once material is placed on the airframe.
                  My thought was hopefully to have a translucent Red fuselage with Red on the wood covered sections, trim and Neutral covering the open wing and stabilizer bays.
                  Hold a light behind it.......once it’s in the air with the sun shinning thru it you will see everything!
                  TEAM GORGEOUS

                  Comment


                  • #90
                    Gene, I think Tom is correct. Take the fuse outside the shop and let the sun shine through. Oh, I forgot, likely not much direct sun shine with all the smoke in our air these days. Just kidding.

                    Larry

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