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40% Ka-3 part scratch part kit

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  • It takes that long for the glue to dry? Is that the usual length of time or do you want to be extra safe?

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    • Gene C
      Gene C commented
      Editing a comment
      I apologize for the misunderstanding on the question in regards to the canopy. The 560 canopy glue is white on application, drying clear. Until it is clear, not cloudy, there is a possibility for the joint to release. It took a week for the glue to dry clear on all the joints so the retaining tap was left in place to be extra safe.
      Last edited by Gene C; 02-14-2019, 10:01 PM. Reason: Sorry for misunderstanding the question

  • Time to start thinking of building a BOX!

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    • ARUP
      ARUP commented
      Editing a comment
      The structures are very pleasing to the eye. Too bad they get covered. You will have to build a BIG box!

  • Finished construction of the wing center cover. A decision will have to be made as to painting or not, but that can wait for now. Wing strut transport blocks were made so the wing strut can pivot at the wing mount and be secured to the root while in the box. Hardware well be needed to assemble a quick release pin arrangement to make field assembly easy. Using 1/4" pin stripping tape the edges of the canopy was finished off. That's going to be as good as it will get at present.

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    • Spent some time working on the cockpit camera base the past few days. The mount is removable with the removal of a #2 servo screw and molded to fit the airframe for stability. The base will hold a Mobius 1080 Action Cam to capture video of stick movement and hopefully smooth landings.

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      • A redesign was needed for the canopy release servo location. Servo #1 failed and required removal. At least the fuselage was not covered as it was not pretty. There is only 1.5" of space between the upper nose sheeting and the battery shelf so an easy release servo retainer was needed. A tight fitting tongue now holds the servo in a formed mount. With the instrument panel removed the tongue can be removed with the aid of a pair of pliers and the servo worked out of its mount.
        To finish up some more loose ends the 0.015 301 stainless steel wear strip for the skid was trimmed and attached in front with two #2 x 5/16 FH screws. The wear strip will be glued to the skid later with contact cement. Foam wing supports were cut for the box but also aided in the wiring of the wings.
        No more photos at present as I have exceeded the KB limit. Something is wrong as I have posted more photos than this in the past at 1.4mb.
        Last edited by Gene C; 02-22-2019, 01:51 AM. Reason: Can not post photos above 889kb

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        • Continued. Lowered photo quality.

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          • Fiberglass cloth 0.75oz was cut and rolled in preparation of the finishing step on the wings before covering. Thanks to my lovely wife for painstakingly cutting the delicate fabric before it was rolled on a 4" dia cardboard sleeve for transfer to the wings. The epoxy resin required a toasty 70+ for application as compared to the 30F outside. However the shop cats don't seem to really mind the added heat.

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            • Just a small tip Gene, if you use a cutting wheel versus scissors, you will find the cloth will not fray!

              Jeremy
              SCC​​​​​AAA TT TN

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              • Not to confuse anyone with a Dremel cutting wheel but a pizza cutting wheel.
                This is what I use and it's available at Jo Ann's or Fiberglast.

                Click image for larger version

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                • Swiss1
                  Swiss1 commented
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                  Olfa are the best!

                • Gene C
                  Gene C commented
                  Editing a comment
                  That's the problem in my situation, no cutting pad. To layout and cut the 0.075oz cloth I'd need a pad at least 38" w x 90" long. Butcher paper was spread out on the basement floor to lay the fabric on to mark and cut, but that's past history now.

              • Oh well, I would have taped down one or two layers of the wide blue tape.

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                • Gene C
                  Gene C commented
                  Editing a comment
                  That's a thought I'll have to cubbyhole for future use. Thanks,

              • There would be a good chance to finish up the Ka-3 before June if it wasn't so blasted cold out. Stuff just won't stick well from below freezing to just above 68F, so in the meantime work will continue on the pilot, parachute and harness. If it stays cold much longer there is always the box to build.

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                • The pilot is taking shape and the parachute and restraint harness hardware is just about ready for some strapping.

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                  • Gene, How do you make the harness bits? They are outstanding!!!

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                    • The most important thing is to keep an open mind when looking for an end scale part. In this case there were a few double 7/8" strap adjustment buckles in one of my wife's sewing boxes. When cut and trimmed they made great 40% harness buckles. Buckles for 1/4 and 1/3 harnesses have been made in the past from the polystyrene Kwik Lok closures (found on most potato bags and other produce). Due to the extrusion process they are tougher than pure polystyrene material. In this case, Z closure material was cut to make up the lap latch. The wire parts were formed from 1/16 dia stainless steel welding rod and soldered.
                      Just remember to keep an open mind when looking for scratch built parts.

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                      • 'Just remember to keep an open mind when looking for scratch built parts.'

                        That's right... everything has possibilities of becoming a model airplane part!

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