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Schweizer 1-26E ~ 1/2.5-scale Kit by Peter Goldsmith (Build thread by JimD)

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  • Fin sheeting looks great!

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    Until I looked at the bottom edge and spotted this gap.

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    The good thing about using Speed Bond is the ability to use a hot iron to reactive the glue bonding...nice and tight now!

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    Next step is to add the leading edge cap (after flat sanding the leading edge).

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    Now back to the fuselage...

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    A Site for Soar Eyes

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    • Aft fuselage completed (except around base of fin)

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      Fin tip added and leading edge and tip sanded to final shape.

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      A Site for Soar Eyes

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      • ARUP
        ARUP commented
        Editing a comment
        Won't be long until covering starts!

    • Yes sir there Michael...Did some smooth sanding on the upper fuselage sheeting.

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      And we added a weight box up against F1. Peter's prototype required about 5 lbs. of nose weight to balance at the front of the spar, so we are putting 2-1/2 lbs. here and another 2 lbs. in the nose block. Have provisions for adding more as needed against the backside of F1.

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      A Site for Soar Eyes

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      • The canopy frame is constructed of three pieces of laser cut 1/8" plywood.

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        We elected to stiffen this with pieces of basswood along the bottom fuselage sides and a piece of 1/8" plywood across the bottom of the instrument panel.

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        A retractable pin latch was previously added before sheeting the top of the fuselage.

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        This goes through the upper back plywood piece of the canopy frame.

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        The front canopy hold down uses a scrap piece of basswood that locks under F3 and two blocks on either side that keep the canopy center at the front.

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        A Site for Soar Eyes

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        • The stab bolts have tapered heads so that they are flush with the top surface of the stab when installed on the model. This is necessary so that the rudder does not catch or rub on them. Using a countersink bit makes this a quick and neat process.

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          The nose blocks come partially cut to fit the nose formers. We used our bandsaw to cut off excess material and them glued the parts together into one unit. The blocks are slightly undersize on one side so scrap gals a was added to complete the fit.

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          Couldn't stand it any longer...had to apply some covering!

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          A Site for Soar Eyes

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          • ARUP
            ARUP commented
            Editing a comment
            Cream and red... classic!

        • So who’s going to be the first to model this particular aircraft?

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          • JimD
            JimD commented
            Editing a comment
            Here is a start!

            http://www.flitemetal.com/

          • ARUP
            ARUP commented
            Editing a comment
            Pretty shiney! Look at the crowd around Dean Gradwell's Cherokee in the background!

        • Added 24oz. of ballast in the nose block.

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          A Site for Soar Eyes

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          • Final planking on the upper part of the nose is best done with 1/2" wide strips of 1/8" balsa. Start with a piece running from the back lower corner to the front midline corner and build out with strips added to either side. Wet the wood strips so that they will twist and bend and bow easily as you go.

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            A Site for Soar Eyes

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            • Click image for larger version

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              Added filler to low spots.

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              A Site for Soar Eyes

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              • Nice Jim. I've never seen planking done on an angle before.

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                • Pgoldsmith
                  Pgoldsmith commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Aussies tend to do things sideways..😜
                  Seriously though, planking on the bias is very strong, works perfect on the front deck..

                • JimD
                  JimD commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Planks tend to form into a nice bow shape when applied this way too.

                • gunny11
                  gunny11 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I can see that, also less chances of putting your fingers through the sheeting.

              • So what are you using for Balsa Filler Jim?
                And are you going to fiberglass the fuselage?

                Jeremy
                SCCAAA TT TN

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                • JimD
                  JimD commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Using balsa color Hobby Lite filler.

                  Plan to fiberglass the inside to strengthen. Fuselage will be covered with UltaCoat.

              • Added the tail block and sanded to shape and then took a minute to see parts coming together!

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                A Site for Soar Eyes

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                • I need to figure out how to put all this on a jump drive in case something happens to this thread. This info is totally priceless for those of us who will be building this model next winter...
                  I am a long way from even finishing the Czmelak and don't have the 1-26 yet.
                  Beautiful work guys...saw the video of Pete's maiden on his...looks great..
                  kevin

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                  • The thread is secure.
                    Len Buffinton
                    Team Horizon Hobby

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                    • The curved fuselage top wraps around the fin. The way this is built is to first add the 1/8" sheeting over the fin base mounting plate area.

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                      Then make a pattern from the base rib of the fin.

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                      Copy that onto the fuselage sheeting and cut out opening.

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                      Now the fin will drop into place.

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                      Next, the rudder cable guides are installed.

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                      A Site for Soar Eyes

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