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1:3.5 Slingsby Sedbergh T21b Build (Chris Williams Design)

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  • #31
    I have had the same thing happen with builds in the past. I would cut a new F1 that is wider and install it for the correct outline and the make a little thicker/longer nose block. The nose block is probably big enough to drill a flat bottomed hole in it to epoxy in some nose weight. Build looks great!! Thanks for sharing.

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    • Tango Juliet
      Tango Juliet commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Stew. I'm thinking that's the best way to handle it as well. A larger nose block certainly won't hurt anything.
      Last edited by Tango Juliet; 11-23-2017, 11:32 AM.

  • #32
    Awesome build thread...your pictures are really done well and it all reads like a story...well done...I have subscribed as well...

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    • Tango Juliet
      Tango Juliet commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you KJ. Glad to have you along for the ride.

  • #33
    Well, that took some effort! I made, and then re-made, a larger F1 to solve my fitment issues. Now it's epoxied into place (with a little Carbon Veil as well). I was also able to make and add a lower F3. The entire "cockpit" still needs some attention to get the seats made and the control tunnel that separates the two seats. None of which is represented on the plans.
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    Something still didn't look quite right. I decided it was the vertical sides that were too high, so I re-made F1 yet again.
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    Much better.
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    Looking good!

    The dorsal spine arches didn't line up too well, and the depth of the notches for the 1/4" square Balsa stick wouldn't ensure a straight, level spine.

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    To remedy, I measures the plans for height and spacing, then transferred those measurements to the arches and added shims or sanded/filed where necessary.
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    Straight and level now.
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    There's nothing on the Fuse right now that requires it to be set in the jigs any longer, and to be honest, the time I've spent on it so far is beginning to wear on me. I think when I return home from work next week, I'm going to remove the Fuselage from the bench for the time being and proceed to the Wings, just for a change of pace. Once I get the Wings built, then I'll have all of the major assemblies constructed and I can then start with the fitting of the radio and scale details.
    Member In Good Standing - "Builds Slower Than A Dead Turtle Nailed To A Fencepost" Club

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    • JimD
      JimD commented
      Editing a comment
      So TJ, I was wondering if your "building inspector" help you figure this out? 🐱

    • ARUP
      ARUP commented
      Editing a comment
      Yeah... where's that inspector? Jim has two to keep him on his toes! Now you know why I like 'scratch-building'! I don't have to deal with kit supplied inaccuracies but just my own! FWIW- I like to make those turtle deck formers from balsa and notch them after they have been sanded fair and square. I had to remake a couple on my current project. Keep up the great work!

    • Tango Juliet
      Tango Juliet commented
      Editing a comment
      JimD - My kittie isn't allowed in my work shop. Only because he's really a stray from the neighborhood that befriended me. He only goes into a few of the downstairs rooms unsupervised, and other rooms under close supervision. If I had gotten him as a kitten, it would be a different story. As it is though, he keeps me from getting too much done most of the time. He jumps up in my lap with a blanket and curls up to sleep. I hate to disturb him, so he sleeps and I surf the web.

      ARUP - I probably should have re-made the turtle deck formers from balsa also (but I did drill out some lightening holes) because they're only there to support the 1/4" square longeron "spine". The covering is "not" supposed to touch them.

  • #34
    This is very helpful as I will soon be doing the fuse on the Czmelak and I know Pete said something to the same effect to be careful of a few stumbling blocks.
    I actually have done quite a bit of scratch building and I am liking Pete's kits since it is a new direction and really requires some pondering to figure things out. Actually, Len has helped me see most of what I could NOT see...!!!

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    • #35
      Hmm... Well that's frustrating! I finally built and skinned the Fin, but when I tried to place the Horizontal Stab where it's supposed to go, it just didn't fit quite right. Everything seems to be built according to the plans, but there just isn't enough room for the Elevators to rotate freely. They're rubbing the Fuselage, and the arc in the Fin isn't large enough either. I haven't quite decided how to tackle this yet, but I'm leaning toward re-shaping the interior edge of the Elevators.
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      I've also taken a little bit of a break from the T21 and have been working on a little Glo-powered sport wing called the Combat Gremlin. It's actually the first R/C airplane I Solo'd in 1992! It's a fun little change of pace.
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      Member In Good Standing - "Builds Slower Than A Dead Turtle Nailed To A Fencepost" Club

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      • ARUP
        ARUP commented
        Editing a comment
        Put that Gremlin away and get busy on the T21b. You'll have plenty of opportunities to see more 'gremlins' as you build if things go for you as they do for me!

    • #36
      Oh the joys of building from old hand drawn plans!

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      • Tango Juliet
        Tango Juliet commented
        Editing a comment
        I actually did do a little bit of work last week on the T21, but it wasn't worth taking any photos of, so I didn't update my thread. I haven't given up on it yet.
        Last edited by Tango Juliet; 01-17-2018, 04:16 PM.

    • #37
      When I run into issues, like the Stab clearance, I tend to walk away from it for a while, so this week I turned to getting the forward bottom plywood sheeting on. I'll come back to the Stab in a few weeks.

      I used a sheet of paper to get a rough outline of what was needed, then transferred that to 1/32" ply. Each was epoxied on with 30 minute epoxy. The edges will be sanded to the finished outline.


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      Then the interior floor was covered in .75 oz. fiberglass for additional strength. I used West Systems Epoxy for this as it wets out the fiberglass much better than 30 minute epoxy does.

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      Besides the Stab, I also need to start fleshing out the cockpit interior, but the plans don't provide any of the structure for this, i.e. seats and center tunnel that hides/houses the rudder cables and torque tubes for the elevator and ailerons on the 1:1. On mine it will hide the pushrods for the micro servos to the cockpit controls... which I also still have to complete.

      And I did also more or less complete my Combat Gremlin except for servos and the OS engine that may not show up any time soon now that Hobbico has filed for bankruptcy.


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      Member In Good Standing - "Builds Slower Than A Dead Turtle Nailed To A Fencepost" Club

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