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  • #46
    Does the little special tool just glide along the bottom inside skin/ hinge without cutting though? It just removes excess foam and cleans out the trench?

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    • #47
      watching!!!
      Len Buffinton
      Team Horizon Hobby

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by ARUP View Post
        Does the little special tool just glide along the bottom inside skin/ hinge without cutting though? It just removes excess foam and cleans out the trench?
        Mike

        in fact the trench is cleaned before using a flat screwdriver, the tool allow to dig a small trench in the fiberglass below the veneer.

        layup is wood / FG / Peel ply / FG / FG / Foam

        On the outside you need to go through the veneer and FG and from the trench you need to go through the double layer of fiberglass to free up the peel ply

        Clear enough?

        Stéphane
        Stéphane
        Horizon Hobby Team Member

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        • #49
          The peel ply is the hinge? I always thought the peel ply was just used to get exterior finish and was discarded but you have used it differently.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by ARUP View Post
            The peel ply is the hinge? I always thought the peel ply was just used to get exterior finish and was discarded but you have used it differently.
            Yes peel ply is the hinging material
            Stéphane
            Horizon Hobby Team Member

            Comment


            • Steve P
              Steve P commented
              Editing a comment
              Interesting. I've always used Kevlar in the past (learned via the Phil Barnes approach) but the current argument is that Aramid is more brittle when wetted out with epoxy while the Peel Ply is more durable and resistant to tearing.

          • #51
            Second part of the job...

            First carving the foam on the wing side in order to make a pocket where the future moving surface lip will slide in

            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr

            Then lay up of two layers of 1.5-2oz fiberglass. Less easy as it seems as the tape will fray!!!

            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr

            Then as second layer of balsa, slightly narrower than the first one that close the moving surface in order to allow the moving surface to move properly

            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr

            A bit of carving, first using a sanding block and then using 80 grit sand paper in the gap between the moving surface and the wing. Leave a comfortable gap in order for the covering material to not bind on the wing

            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr

            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr

            ET VOILA!


            CLOSE

            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr

            OPEN


            Untitled by steffruelle, on Flickr


            Stéphane
            Horizon Hobby Team Member

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            • #52
              Nice Stuff French1

              Jeremy and Ben
              SCCAAA TT TN

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              • ARUP
                ARUP commented
                Editing a comment
                I'll second that... nice stuff!

            • #53
              Lets get these wings done!

              Tip added, usual method, a thin plywood between LE and TE plus some balsa top and bottom.

              This avoid the tip when they are balsa only to be dented

              Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

              Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

              Et voila

              Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

              Stephane
              Stéphane
              Horizon Hobby Team Member

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              • #54
                No fancy winglets? C'mon, now! You are on the home stretch!

                Comment


                • French1
                  French1 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  No Michael, the Janus is a too old sailplane to have experimented winglets, at least I found none retrofitted with some winglets.

              • #55
                Janus is back at the top of stack of work..

                Program of today : servo pockets

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                I just drill corners then use metallic roller with xacto knife to open them and using a rotary tool to crave the foam out.

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr




                Then come the time to shape a piece of plywood in shape for having the servo flush on the lower surface


                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                presure is your friend..

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                and here we are, just add a plywood cover and two screws and it is done!

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Stéphane
                Horizon Hobby Team Member

                Comment


                • ARUP
                  ARUP commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Glad to see you back on this one!

              • #56
                Starting on the fuse,

                first the stab holder simple piece of plywood with two bind nut, a bit of 5mn epoxy to put it in place and some slow epoxy with filler and cotton fiber to lock it place

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                then the servo holder that is also used as the fin stiffener (very very important!) to avoid fin stress.

                Control of geometry

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                the magic plywood ..

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                And a bit of compression for a good bond and geometry

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr
                Stéphane
                Horizon Hobby Team Member

                Comment


                • ARUP
                  ARUP commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Looks like you are making great time on this! Nice work!

                • French1
                  French1 commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Moving along mike...

              • #57
                Time to move to the landing gear

                first cutting the doors, I use for this a metal ruler and the back of an xacto knife then a hack saw

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Couple former to hold the undercarriage, and a tray for the rudder servo

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                a bit of epoxy and FG

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Doors are hinged with bicycle tire tube glued with CA

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                tabs for the door end point

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Then gluing the tube to the fuse with slight stretch, it will allow the door to close by themself

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Et voila!!! (click on it to see the video)

                Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                Stéphane
                Stéphane
                Horizon Hobby Team Member

                Comment


                • #58
                  great build Stephane...love the idea of the bicycle tube for door hinges.

                  Matt

                  Comment


                  • #59
                    Nice retract mount and cool trick using wingnut and bolt in slot for servo adjustment... correct?

                    Comment


                    • French1
                      French1 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Correct Mike, I love that system for maintenance, very easy to put in and out and big plus you can adjust the tension on the cables with one screw..

                  • #60
                    Now let tackle the tow release.
                    As I am planning to install a motor in the nose, I don't want to use a regular to release, I will use a side to release on the Janus.

                    I have built a servo holder and moved the servo close to the undercarriage to give me some space in the front of the nose. Servo is a A6265 with 328 oz at 6V, never want again to have too weak of a servo....

                    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                    I glued a plastic tube on the side of the fuse and made a blob of microsphere and epoxy where I will carve my tow release

                    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                    And from the outside I created the cavity that I will use as tow release, plastic tuve is on eache side and a piano wire come to lock the loop

                    Sans titre by steffruelle, sur Flickr

                    Another thing down on this ship, still some more to go but getting closer
                    Stéphane
                    Horizon Hobby Team Member

                    Comment


                    • Steve P
                      Steve P commented
                      Editing a comment
                      +1. Great, effective approach to a release especially if you don’t want to spoil the nose of the sailplane. I have done 3 different examples and all worked flawlessly.
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